Niedermann | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Niedermann Zwillingsturm (Salbit) 2920 m

Difficulty

6a (5c+)
Pitches / Height Difference

14 P / 5 h, 380 m
Exposition / Rock Type

SE / Granite
Altitude start

2550 m

This route by the legendary rope of Niedermann & Anderrüthi follows the natural weaknesses of the wall. While the first five pitches are nothing special (except for the massive chock-stone bit) the rest is really interesting, with unique passages like the double corners of pitch 10 and the huge letterbox slot you have to squeeze through on pitch 12. Once on top - to add to the pleasure - you can continue along the south ridge or one of the 5c-6a variants up to the main summit of Salbitschijen and its spectacular summit tooth. If you intend to do this, do not leave anything at the start of the route.

Spectacular damoclean chock stone! (07/2013) © Simeon Christophe

Corner cracks on the Niedermann (07/2013) © Simeon Christophe

The famous dihedral of pitch 10 seen from the South Ridge. © Remy Claude

The letterbox pitch! (07/2013) © Simeon Christophe

Near the top the rock becomes more compact. (07/2013) © Simeon Christophe

Route description

Salbithütte - cliff base

From the Salbithütte follow the path as for Salbitschijenbiwak to the small terrace at about 2350 m, where the path flattens out and turns left towards the suspension bridge. Continue straight up over screes to reach the cliff base. The start of the route is located at the foot of a couloir in the vertical fall line of the giant chock stone on pitch 5. At the beginning of the season there can be snow on the approach.

Niedermann

See topo

Descent

Abseil the cliff, or continue along the Südgrat to the main summit.

Additional information

Protection: Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope: 2x50m
Quick draws: 12
Stoppers: -
Friends: ✔
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: ++
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Rock Type / Quality: A few loose blocks and some vegetation on the first 5 pitches.

Protection / Material: The bolting is sparse but you can always place gear. A set of friends 0.5 to 3 is handy.

Depending on the state of the neve at the foot of the wall (call the hut), crampons or an ice axe can be useful.

Descent: If you want to descend on foot, you have to climb over the south ridge or one of the variants to the summit of Salbitschijens. If not, you can return to the base of the wall via the abseil in the routes Light and Shadow and Jimmy (see sketch).