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SW-Face "Trittji" (Normal route) Wiwannihorn 3000 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, 2a
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- Ascent
- 2–2 h, 540 m
The normal route through the southwest face is the easiest way to climb the striking Wiwannihorn. It is a a short half-day tour from the private Wiwannihütte. The route often serves as a descent, for those who've climbed one of numerous harder rock routes up the mountain. A combination, with the West Ridge in ascent, and the route described here in descent, would also be highly recommended. The west ridge is only slightly more difficult than the normal route through the Southwest Wall. The hardest part of the route is a rock band below the summit scree- or snow slope, but blue markings show the way and a number of bolts add security.
Route description
Wiwannihütte - Wiwanni
From the Wiwannihütte (2463 m), follow the path to the boulder field of Wiwanni.
Wiwanni - Wiwannihorn
From the boulder field at "Wiwanni" head north and climb tracks to the cliff base by a waterfall. Now first climb to the right of the gully over slabs before crossing at a suitable point back left (bolts). Climb the main steep flank (grassy patches) in the direction of a sharp rock tooth in the S-wall (Bh). Before reaching the 'sharp tooth', bear right and climb straight up over a blocky rib (good stances) to reach the edge of the boulder-strewn summit cap. Tracks lead to the summit at the western edge of this summit cap (sometimes a snowfield).
Additional information
- Departure point
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- History
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E. Von Fellenberg with P. Siegen and J. Schmid, 11. September 1880.
