From south via the South East Ridge | Alpinism

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Home
Huts and Tours
- SAC Route Portal
- Subscribe to the SAC Route Portal
SAC Route Portal
Wilerhorn (VS)
- Ski tour
- Alpinism
Alpinism
- From south via the South East Ridge
- NNE-Ridge
From south via the South East Ridge

From south via the South East Ridge (Normal route) Wilerhorn (VS) 3307 m

Difficulty

F, 2a
Ascent

7–7 h, 2240 m

Normal route from Hohtenn via Patzalp and Jolialp. Since there are no huts to stay in in along the Jolital, the ascent is very long. At the Chiemattbode, however, is a good spot to bivvy/ pitch a tent, thus you can split the ascent over two days. It is also possible to take the bike up the Alpstrasse to Jolialp, later shortening the descent. From Hohtenn to the summit of the Wilerhorn, you pass all types of vegetation, that is, from the near Mediterranean climate of the Lötschberg's southern step to the glaciated high mountains around the Bietschhorn. The Wilerhorn offers a wonderful panoramic view of the Bernese and Valais Alps and is the immediate neighbor of the Bietschhorn.

Last section of the route - from the col to the summit. (07/2013) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Wilerhorn and the Joligletscher viewed from the south, the final ascent on the SE-ridge to the summit from right to left. (07/2013) © Bernhard Senn

Route description

Hohtenn - Chiemattbode

From the station Hohtenn (1077 m) you first follow the Südrampenweg (path) direction Ausserberg. After the railway underpass, choose the path leading to Alp Tatz. From Alp Tatz, take the path, or the road that crosses several times over the path, to the hairpin bend at P.1640. From here on, continue straight along the wide path with branches off to Alp Joli. At the Alp Joli you stay on the western (!!!DIFFERENT TO THE MAP!!!) side of the stream and follow trails up to the Chiemattbode (possible camp site).

Chiemattbode - Wilerhorn

After crossing over the Chiemattbode, follow tracks up along the moraine in the middle of the valley, then bear east to pass P. 2627 on the right. From here, climb on up to P. 2928 (some moderate scrambling) and enter the glacier at about 2980 m. Now head for the Jolilicka (col) at 3200 m, southeast of the main summit via the gently sloping glacier. The climb up to the Jolilicka over a snow or rubble slope is straightforward. Finally climb the steep snow/ screes to join ridges leading to the summit. These are climbed direct, or on their eastern side.