Via Dossensattel and the North Ridge | Alpinism

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- Via Dossensattel and the North Ridge
Via Dossensattel and the North Ridge

Via Dossensattel and the North Ridge (Normal route) Tossen / Dossen 3138 m

Difficulty

PD+, 3a
Ascent

2–2:30 h, 520 m
Descent

40 m

Also known as the Dossenhorn and written as 'Tossen' on the newest maps, this rewarding viewpoint makes for a great half day tour from the Dossen hut. In earlier times, the Dossensattel could be reached from the east by a snow slope. This is almost completely gone now in summertime, and the fragile rock thereabout is dangerous. The route via the Dossengrat (ridge) described here is to be preferred. The variant via ‘Bänderweg’ on the ascent or descent makes for an attractive combination.

The Dossenhütte SAC with the Dossen's Nord Ridge in profile. © Bomio Marco

On the Dossen's North Ridge looking back towards the hut. © Bernhard Senn

Climbing on the Dossengrat, on the first well secured section. © Bernhard Senn

On the Dossengrat, shortly before the Dossensattel. © Bernhard Senn

The last few metres to the Dossensattel, on the right the ridge hump, which can be bypassed or climbed over on the left (east). © Fabian Lippuner

View from the Dossensattel to the summit, the final ascent can be climbed more or less along the left edge of the picture (II-III). © Fabian Lippuner

View from Dossen to the south with Rosenhorn, Mittelhorn and Wetterhorn to the right, Ränfenhorn to the left. © Fabian Lippuner

View from Dossen (south) with Ränfenhorn centre image. © Bomio Marco

On the variant on the Tossengrat, looking south. After the next spike, descend right to the ‘Bänderweg’ Tossensattel. © Bernhard Senn

On the descent via the ‘Bänderweg’ (variant). © Fabian Lippuner

Route description

Dossenhütte - Dossensattel

From the Dossenhütte (2663 m), head roughly 100 m southwest along the path below the first rocks of the ridge. Turn right to follow a short scree slope up onto the ridge. Follow this (scrambling) up to the small summit, shortly before the saddle. It's also possible to avoid this last uphill to to the left. The route is equipped with cables, artificial steps and bolts on the steeper passages and one short descent can be abseiled (30 m rope sufficient). From the last hump (which can be bypassed east) just descend the rocks down onto the Dossensattel.

Dossensattel - Dossen

From the saddle, start slightly left, taking a 5 m high step to gain the ridge proper. Follow various corners and steps, maximum grade II-III depending on choice of route, to the summit; 1 hr from the saddle.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Variant via the Northwest flank

It is also possible to traverse onto the NW flank before climbing up to the summit. When free of snow, this option is slightly easier than the normal route. The NW flank is also used to reach the Wetterhorn, Rosenhorn and Ränfenhorn when starting from the Dossenhütte. From the Dossensattel follow a slightly descending rock band through the NW flank of the Dossen. This leads over several ribs and gullies to the scree/snow slope southwest of the summit ("Bänderweg" tracks, cairns, and in exposed places bolts). Continue south-eastwards over the firn or scree slope and at the top climb the south ridge to Dossen P. 3139. Note: If descending from the Ränfenjoch, gain the NW flank of the Dossen by descending northwards (left/west of the Dossen's S-ridge) and leave the glacier around 3020 m.

Additional information

Departure point

Dossenhütte SAC (2663 m)

Waypoints

Tossensattel (3009 m)

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.