From Steingletscher or Gadmen | Ski tour

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Tierberglihütte SAC
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- From Steingletscher or Gadmen
From Steingletscher or Gadmen

From Steingletscher or Gadmen (Normal route) Tierberglihütte SAC 2795 m

Difficulty

PD+
Ascent

2:30–3 h, 930 m
Descent

930 m
Exposure

N, NE

The Sustenstrasse is closed in winter from Obermad (1209 m) and opens up in stages from mid-March onwards. In the middle / end of April it is usually cleared up to the Steingletshcer. The Hotel Steingletscher (Steinalp Lodge) is open from mid-March, depending on conditions. In 2019 and 2020, rock and ice falls on the Bockberg affected the usual winter access route to the Tierbergli hut. As a result, an alternative approach (summer route variant) was tested and temporarily recommended.

On a wintery Sustenpass road. © Gisela Teuscher

Just enough head room... © Gisela Teuscher

Steep section 2400 m (before the massive rockfall of winter 19/20) © Gisela Teuscher

Above the steep section, looking back. © Gisela Teuscher

Tierberglihütte - SAC section Baselland © Gisela Teuscher

Ski tourers in the steep section between 2600 and 2700 m on the alternative winter appraoch to the Tierberglihütte (visible top right) (30.10.2020) © zVg

Route description

Steingletscher - Tierberglihütte

Follow the valley in the direction of Umpol, then bear left up to the ridge behind Chööbägli (2134 m). From here contour round onto the Steingletscher. Follow the curve of the Steingletscher up and round to the W (steep - 35° between 2400 and 2500 m, keep as far to the right (north) as possible due to zone threatened by rock and ice fall!). Continue SW in more gentle terrain to 2700 m, after which you can arc westwards over to the hut at 2798 m. In good conditions it is also possible the carry the skis and climb the short couloir leading up right (SW) from ca. 2300 m.

Alternative route avoiding the dangerous serac/rockfall zone of recent years.

For the winter approach to the Tierberglihütte, the route via Umpol - and based on the normal summer approach via P. 2427 was a recommended alternative. The crux is the steep step between 2600 and 2700 m where you must leave the line of the summer path and bear left (SE) towards the topout of the via ferrata. This route is significantly steeper and more exposed than the approach over the glacier: it is essential to be aware of the avalanche danger.

Variant: from Obermad

From Obermad, if the street to Steingletscher has not been cleared, ascend the main road to Bim Sagli and continue, or take the old road more steeply up through the forest to north of the Feldmoshubel, then join the main road again at P. 1688 and follow this E to Steingletscher.

Additional information

Departure point

Steingletscher, Susten (1865 m)

Bus service only during the summer months. Road conditions: + 41 33 971 25 50 or www.alpen-paesse.ch/alpenpaesse/sustenpass/

Get there Google Maps

Steingletscher, Susten

Remarks: The approach leads over glacier - crevasse danger! Difficult route finding when foggy.

Add 2.5 - 3hrs and 850 m altitude from Gadmen.

Waypoints

Gadmen, Obermaad (1208 m)

Departure point if the road (Sustenpassstrasse) is closed in the winter. Information with the above service and road bulletin at www.grimselwelt.ch/info/anreise

Various: Infos Sustenpass Bernerseite
For road information see: www.alpen-paesse.ch/de/alpenpaesse/sustenpass/ Or for regular updates on the Bernese side there is also an SMS service (fee, 20 Rp./SMS) available for summer and winter. Subscribe: send SMS with "start oberhasli" to 9234. To cancel text "stop oberhasli".