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From the Schreckhornhütte

From the Schreckhornhütte (Normal route) Strahleggpass 3332 m

Difficulty

F
Ascent

3–4 h, 880 m

A valuable connection between the Grindelwald and Grimsel regions, the Strahleggpass provides the shortest route from the Schreckhornhütte to either the Aarbiwak or the Lauteraarhütte. It is a grand scenic tour and is often undertaken for its own sake, though it can be combined with an ascent of the Strahlegghorn via its North Ridge (PD). While the ascent from the Schreckhornhütte is quite easy, the descent to the Strahleggfirn through the so-called "Strahleggwändli" is quite difficult. Numerous iron rods facilitate orientation and can be used for abseiling and securing. Important Note: The descent does not start at the lowest point of Strahleggpass, but a little north of it.

On the Gaagg ca. 3160 m; Right - direction Strahleggpass, Left - the Schreckfirn © Marco Bomio

In descent, direction Schreckhornhütte (08/2015) © Bomio Marco

Route description

Schreckhornhütte - Oberer Gaag

From the Schreckhornhütte (2529 m) follow the approach path shorty before descending across the moraine in a southerly direction onto the Obere Ischmeer. Follow the glacier's eastern edge for approximately 1km. Warning! Take care not to stray too early onto the eastern moraines due to the high risk of rock and ice fall from the slopes and Schreckfirn above. Before the glacier steepens and narrows and the moraine turns to steeper rock, leave the glacier and follow tracks over unpleasant screes up and left. The ideal route, marked with cairns, is difficult to find in the dark and it is advised to rehearse this section the day before a planned ascent. On entering larger blockier ground, as soon as the terrain allows keep right (south) and follow the best tracks (interrupted by a slab with a fixed rope) towards the location of the old Strahlegghütte (now only a cairn) ¾ to 1 hr from the hut. Soon, large obvious tracks will lead you up and left once more (north east) towards the Gaagg. Higher up, the tracks lead onto a ridge. Follow this, occasionally via its left flank, until the saddle at its end, the 'Gaagg' is reached ca. 2½ to 3 hrs from the hut.

Oberer Gaag - Strahleggpass.

Now head in an easterly direction over screes and/or snows to the right of the Lauteraarhorn's SW-ridge, until the Strahleggpass is reached at 3332 m (4-6hrs from the Schreckhornhütte.)

From Aarbiwak to the Schreckhornhütte

Descend the route described above ("Strahleggpass - From the Schreckhornhütte") in the opposite direction.

Related route: From Aarbiwak

Additional information

Departure point

Schreckhornhütte SAC (2530 m)

End point

Aarbiwak SAC (2731 m)

History: Although as early as 1748 a shepherd is thought to have crossed the pass, the first official crossing was made in 1812 by Dr Rudolf Meyer of Aarau (who also climbed the Jungfrau with his brother Gottlieb), travelling with two guides from Grimsel to Grindelwald. The 'Strahleggtour' would later become fashionable, with many people finding a glacier wander through such ancient and impressionable terrain more worthy than simply gaining a summit. In this regard and to this day, the tour has lost none of its charm.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.