"Hauptsektor" / Main Sector | Climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Slab Steep wall Overhang Very Beautiful route

"Hauptsektor" / Main Sector Sport Climbing Balzers 490 m

  • Altitude start
    490 m
  • Height Wall
    15–40 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    SW / Limestone
  • Difficulty
    4b-7b

40Routes

  1. 3a-4c2
  2. 5a-5c12
  3. 6a-6c22
  4. 7a-7c4
  5. 8a-9b0

More than forty years ago, beside the river Rhine, beneath the distinctive spire of the Ellhorn, the first climbing routes of the Fläscherberg were developed. By car or bicycle, the area is very easy to reach, making it a good spot for after-work sessions. All routes are well bolted, and there are many 'easier' routes suitable for children. The "Rheinstrand" itself is a beautiful and much visited recreational landscape. This is one of the southernmost points of Liechtenstein; the climbing itself is actually on Grisons soil, while the parking in front of it belongs to Liechtenstein. For a solo evening session, a ground level traverse of the crag will provide ample muscle fatigue.

Routes

  1. 5 Fata Morgana 5c+ 1 P
  2. 6 Efeupfeiler 5c+ 1 P
    linke Variante 6a+
  3. 7 Biärbuch 6a+ 1 P
    unten 5b, dann Einzelstelle
  4. 8 ohne Namen 4b 1 P
  5. 9 Micro 6a+ 1 P
  6. 10 ohne Namen 6a+ 1 P
  7. 11 A rondi Sach 5c+ 1 P
  8. 12 ohne Namen 4c 1 P
  9. 13 ohne Namen 5b 1 P
  10. 14 Bäumliweg 5a 1 P
  11. 15 ohne Namen 5b 1 P
  12. 15a ohne Namen 5b 1 P
    Neue Route
  13. 16 ohne Namen 5c 1 P
    gelbe Bohrhakenlaschen
  14. 17 Via Meinrad 6a+ 1 P
    1. SL 6a+, 2. SL 6a
  15. 18 Hobgoblin 6b 1 P
    Verlängerung 6c
  16. 19 Stiärigrind 6a 1 P
  17. 20 Alte Neeracher 5c+ 1 P
    wächst zu, nicht saniert
  18. 21 Chaschperlitheater 6c 1 P
  19. 22 Huldiplatte 6c+ 1 P
    Fusstechnik und Leistenkrallen. Sehr schön aber schwierig.
  20. 23 Blitzidee 6a 1 P
    2 Seillängen
  21. 24 Bananäschalä 6a 1 P
    2 Seillängen, Einzelgriffe stark abgegriffen
  22. 25 Runauto 6c+ 1 P
    = runout... gefährlich einzuhängen.
  23. 26 Gernots Warzenplatte 6a 1 P
  24. 27 Thé marocain 6a 1 P
  25. 28 Café de Brasil "Büchse" 5c+ 1 P
    1. Seillänge 5c; der Klassiker in Balzers
  26. 29 Neeracherplatte 6b 1 P
    schönste Oldstyle-Route in Balzers
  27. 30 Wadenspanner 7a 1 P
    knackig
  28. 31 Über dem Abgrund 6b 1 P
    1. Seillänge 6a+/6b, 2. Seillänge 5c; teils etwas brüchig, 2. Seillänge wird kaum geklettert
  29. 32 Rechtshänder 6a+ 1 P
    etwas brüchig
  30. 33 Stand in Sicht 6a 1 P
    3 Seillängen, 2. Seillänge übers Dach brüchig!
  31. 34 Beats Dach 7b 1 P
    NEU mit Bewertung
  32. 35 Nomis 6a 1 P
    etwas brüchig und abgegriffen
  33. 36 Eslein streck dich 7b 1 P
  34. 37 Hundeverbot 6c 1 P
    Bis zum Dach 5b+; Dach ein Klassiker!
  35. 38 Langfinger 7a+ 1 P
  36. 40 Querschläger 5a 1 P
  37. 41 Abpraller 5c 1 P
  38. 42 Aff sucht/ohne Schaukel 6a 1 P
  39. 43 Affenschaukel 6a 1 P
    so steil geht 6a!
  40. 44 Rissdach 6b 1 P

Additional information

Protection
Very well equipped
Rope
60 m
Quick draws
12
Stoppers
-
Friends
-
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
-
Abseiling possible
Foot Descent
Rain sheltered
-
Child friendly terrain
Child friendly routes
-
Rock type

Limestone. Most routes are slabby and require good footwork. For strong arms there is always the big roof. Though established routes are mostly stable, the rock is not everywhere solid, therefore it is worth wearing a helmet. Additional stone fall triggered by animals can also rain down from the steep forest above. Understandable for such an accessible crag, some of the routes are quite polished. Grass in some cracks and ledges.

Protection / Material

Routes with an intermediate stand are now mostly climbed as a single pitch with a 60- to 80-meter rope. Accordingly, more than 12 quickdraws are needed.

Climbing for Kids

Many easier routes make it a great spot for kids.

Descent

For the longest routes in the middle part of the wall a descent on foot is possible (see topo), but this is no longer recommended. The risk of loosening stones onto climbers below you is very high!

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