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- Difficulty
- 4c (4c)
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- Pitches
- 10 P
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- N / Granite
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- Altitude start
- 2120 m
The easiest route on the wall. Grassy ledges alternate with beautiful pitches. The route is often climbed.
Route description
Approach to NE-Ridge
From the Albigna cable car station follow the old concrete road around the first bend and up to the base of the wall. A track leads off back right along the base to the top of a vegetated scree cone. At the top of this is the start of the NE-ridge.
NE-Grat to the Dente (tooth)
For roBoth can be climbed optionally (Fiamma a 25m long pitch 5c+, the Dente normal route requires two pitches of climbing up to 6b). Details at the linked waypoint.ute info see Topo.
From the highest point of the NE-Ridge - to the descent of Spazzacaldeira
Climb between the Dente and another small tower then continue slightly downhill onto a ledge system that traverses the uppermost part of the east wall. Signs of a track then lead uphill again to the highest point of the Spazzacaldeira, P. 2487.
Climbing La Fiamma / Il Dente / and main summit.
Both can be climbed optionally (Fiamma a 25m long pitch 5c+, the Dente normal route requires two pitches of climbing up to 6b). Details at the linked route.
Additional information
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Protection
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Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
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Rope
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2x50m
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Quick draws
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12
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Stoppers
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Friends
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✔
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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+
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Abseiling possible
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Protection / Material
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Bolted. A few medium friends.
- Waypoints
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- History
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Alfred H. Summer, 1928
The Dente was "conquered" in 1944 by Hans Rütter and Philipp Wieland with a rope throw from the connecting ridge of the Fiamma.
When and by whom today's normal route was first climbed is no longer known.