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Zermatt-Schweifinen Via ferrata Route B

Zermatt-Schweifinen Via ferrata Route B Schweifinen 2210 m

Difficulty

K4+
Ascent

2 h, 280 m
Mountain Experience

2 / 4
Power

3 / 4
Endurance

2 / 4
Psyche

3 / 4

Zermatt, without a generally open access via ferrata? - the largest tourism provider in the Swiss alps could not justify that, even though some claim the Hörnli- and Liongrat on the Matterhorn, with their static ropes and ladders, to be highest ferratas of the alps. On the 14th of July 2005, exactly 140 years after the first ascent of the "Hore", the 'iron way' above Zermatt railway station was inaugurated - a route for brave beginners. The difficult, yet also rather beautiful extension through the partially overhanging Turuwang and up further walls to the meadows of Schweifinen was opened in the summer of 2006. A marvellous via ferrata, that allows beautiful views into -and over the roofs and alleys of Zermatt and beyond. At the end you climb up onto the green meadows of Schweifinen. There you will find the remains of stables in the shelter of a rock cliff - the name «Chüeberg» on the map already indicates them. Once upon a time the villagers of Zermatt still farmed on these elevated meadows, nowadays they economize the seemingly inaccessible rock faces below.

Overview topo for the Zermatt-Schweifinen via ferrata © AT Verlag

On the key section of route B. © Anker Daniel

Joy prevails on route B. The Breithorn seems calm far above. © Anker Daniel

Route description

Approach

Zermatt-Schweifinen Via ferrata Route B

Route A climbs through rocky-earthy terrain, bearing left. From an intersection, one dead-end trail leads to an abseil point (abseiling is only recommended with a mountain guide!) from which you can descend a beautiful, exposed drop high over the Triftbach stream. Shortly after, you'll be standing in front of the so-called "Beresina-hut im Pudel" (1920 m on the map). From the intersection, route B continues up an old, steep stone staircase. You can also choose this branch of route B to reach route C above the vertical Turuwang (with the difficult section of route B). Most will descend via route A to a forested ledge, until route B branches off to the left; the old path to the Beresina hut used to lead along this ledge (it is still indicated on the map from 1972 for example). Before reaching the intersection, route A leads off further down, to the bottom of the wall. Now upwards to route B over the smooth, vertical and partially overhanging rock wall, at the very top via a metal wire ladder, the crux of the entire tour. Afterwards descending in mostly vertical terrain with a very exposed traverse on 'slightly wobbly' wooden elements. At last, ascend and exit from the Turuwang (wall) into the Turu-forest, where route B and C split (about 1890 m). From here you could simply cross the forest and return to the Beresina-hut via a step. Yet, continuing on route C is rather more beautiful and exerting.

Descent

Additional information

Character: A three-part via ferrata sponsored by the Mountaineering and trekking-equipment supplier Mammut in the steep, vegetated rock walls to the west above Zermatt. Sun exposure in the morning.

K2, but a K1 for the majority of the short, slightly earthy route A. This one can be undertaken without commiting to the other via ferratas.

K4+ for the somewhat overhanging crux of the airy Route B.

K3 - 4 for the rest of Route B as well as for the long route C. Take a waterproof jacket; otherwise you're going to get wet passing the waterfall on route C.