North ridge (from Halbelfjoch) | Mountain hiking | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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North ridge (from Halbelfjoch) (Normal route) Scherbadung 3210 m

  • Difficulty
    T5
  • Ascent
    5:45 h, 1790 m
  • Descent
    3:30 h, 1790 m

Impressive summit in a mighty massif

It is a complicated and long route that leads up to the highest point in a rugged massif. In Italian the summit is called Pizzo Cervandone. One hikes through a variety of geological formations. Everywhere the ground is glittering, a sign of the region’s and the mountain’s mineral richness. Then there is the splendid view of the Binntal summits and to Alpe Dèvero.

Route description

Heiligkreuz – Obere Stafel
From Heiligkreuz follow the trail, at first along Chriegalpwasser, then via Chällerli and Lärchestafel to Obere Stafel (2171 m). Ca. 20 m after a water intake in Fleschbach cairns leads you to the hut «Obere Stafel». If you miss this rather hidden path, you find your way to the hut by making an arc eastward.
Obere Stafel – Scherbadung
On the plain of Obere Stafel hike horizontally about 50 m west, where you find a faint path which leads intermittently to Fleschsee. From the knoll before the lake (2438 m) you can overlook the wide slope between Wannihorn and Fleschhorn and memorise the upcoming ascent. To the right (west) of some compact rocky ledges in the centre of the slope a hardly distinctive rib can be made out (roughly in the fall line of P. 2837 on Wannihorn). On this rib there is a faint path with a few cairns now and then. To reach the rib you walk around Fleschsee by the eastern end. At ca. 2600 m the faint path disappears. Now traverse east and south-east (cairns now and then) up to Halbelfjoch (nameless on the map, east of P. 2756) and continue on rocky ledges (easy climbing) to the ridge east of P. 2817. Follow the ridge line eastwards until on a good ledge you can descend to the depression full of scree to the right (cairn on the ridge). Now ascend east-south-east in this depression with scree and névés to a distinctive breach, which is visible from the ridge. A faint path and cairns show the way through this breach to a surprising plateau with rubble (ca. 2990 m). Making an arch to the east via P. 3018 you reach another scree plateau. Ascend north, then east through a steep, slippery slope with earthy schist towards P. 3156 (very precarious with snow or ice). Now follow the north ridge to the summit. Rocky structures can be overcome by easy climbing (passages up to II) slightly on the right of the ridge line.
Descent
Descend on the same route. Below Halbelfjoch make sure to traverse far enough west to reach the rib below Wannihorn. If you descend too early, you will find yourself on dangerous slopes.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Heiligkreuz (VS) (1459 m)

From the bus stop Binn, Langthal in 2.5 km and 100 m (30 min.) or with alpentaxi.ch to the starting point.

Difficulty / Material

There is a good path until Obere Stafel, followed by segments with only faint paths and cairns and finally completely pathless and unmarked stretches up to the summit. The route on the summit structure is rather complicated.

Waypoints
Neighbor summit

Schwarzhorn / Punta Marani (3107 m)

Schwarzhorn or Punta Marani (3107 m): follow the same route to Halbelfjoch. Then traverse the stony valley south of Fleschhorn and continue across the nameless ice field east of P. 2983 to Colle Marani (3050 m, unnamed on the map). Climbing on blocks, follow the south ridge to the summit. 5 Std. ascent, 3 Std. descent, T5.

Route last update

12/2017

Author

Fredy Joss

Sabine und Fredy Joss

Alpine hiking, climbing and other mountain sports Sabine and Fredy Joss's passion. They have been writing and photographing for the SAC publishing house and the club magazine Die Alpen for many years. Sabine is also a biologist and tour guide; Fredy a proofreader and editor for various magazines.

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