Southeast Ridge | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Southeast Ridge (Normal route) Ruchen (Glärnisch) 2901 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    3–4 h, 900 m
  • Descent
    900 m

An easy alpine tour to the northeastern corner of the Glärnisch massif. After the glacier crossing, the climbing leads over rock steps and talus to the summit, where an extremely impressive view of the Klöntal awaits. If you have additional time and energy, a good addition to this tour would be an ascent of neighbouring Vrenelisgärtli.

Route description

Glärnischhütte - Glärnischfirn (glacier)
From the Glärnischhütte, follow the marked footpath east to the foot of the Glärnischfirn (glacier).
Glärnischfirn - Southeast Ridge - Ruchen
Keeping more to its northern edge, ascend the glacier in the direction of the Schwandergrat, until about 2600 m. From here branch off northeast to gain the rocky flank which leads up and left of P. 2860. Trend slightly left (north) as you climb the flank and reach a scree field. A natural scoop leads east from here towards the southeast ridge. Gain the ridge and follow this (easy climbing) to the summit.
Variant: Descent of the south side of P. 2860 onto the Glärnischfirn
From the summit reverse the Southeast Ridge, now instead of turning west into the flank continue straight on over P. 2860 and climb down its south side to reach the uppermost part of the Glärnischfirn. From here, either descend the glacier, or continue along the humpback ridge to join the Schwandergrat (route to Vrenelisgärtli).

Additional information

Departure point

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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