From the Dossenhütte | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the Dossenhütte (Normal route) Rosenhorn 3688 m

  • Difficulty
    PD
  • Ascent
    5–6 h, 1080 m
  • Descent
    60 m

The Rosenhorn 3689m is a popular destination for touring, both in summer and during the ski touring season. Starting points include the Dossenhütte, the Gaulihütte and the Glecksteinhütte - the latter is popular now due to glacier retreat and the well tracked route across the Beesibärgli. Particularly attractive is a change, with a summit of the Rosenhorn, from one of the three huts to another. All combinations are possible. Here the route from the Dossenhütte is described with the usual summer route from Rosenlaui. During the ascent, instead of crossing the Dossen's summit, you may like to consider the faster crossing of the Dossen's west flank.

Route description

Dossenhütte 2623m - Tossensattel 3008m
From the Dossenhütte (2663 m) follow tracks beneath the first rocks of the ridge in a south-westerly direction for apporximately 100m. Now tun right through a short gap to gain the ridge itself. Follow the ridge over several ups and downs to P. 3032 m. On the steeper sections here the route is equipped with cables and and artificial steps. The descent from here to the Dossensattel (saddle) can be down climbed or abseiled (a 30m rope is sufficient).
Tossensattel 3008m to the fore-summit of the Rosenhorns P. 3643
This trail is slightly easier than the variant over the summit of Dossen, when the rocks are free from snow.: From the Dossensattel (saddle) follow a band, initially descending, along the NW-flank of the Dossen. (Bänderweg”). This leads, crossing several ribs and runnels, to the snow or boulder slope southwest of the Dossen (cairns and tracks mark the way and bolts protect the exposed bits) In late summer, the passage to the glacier can be problematic, therefore, in 2023, the mountain guide association Haslital established a new variant with bolts 40 m below the old route; see topo, start coordinates 2 655 292 / 1 166 471, approx. 3017 m. The bolts of the old access variant were left in place. As long as there is still a lot of snow on the glacier, it may be easier to reach the glacier from the old variant by abseiling. In the ascent (south-north direction), however, the new variant is recommended. Now follow the glacier southwards, passing to the right (west) of the Ränfenjoch (3043 m) and the Ränfenhorn (3225 m). Make the gentle climb in a south-south-west direction, coming close to the Westliche Wätterlimi at P. 3250. In an arc south around P. 3507 and up the snow slope north of the Rosenegg up to the fore-summit (P. 3643) of the Rosenhorn. [Note: If you come from the Ränfenjoch, you can get onto the NW flank of the Dossen by descending northwards below the rocks of the Dossen S ridge, to leave the glacier's eastern edge around 3020 m.]
Variant over the Dossen summit
From the saddle climb a 5m step slightly left of the ridge, and then follow the ridge more or less directly via corners and steps to the summit - 1hr from the saddle and grade III at most. From here descend the snow and/or boulder field in a south-westerly direction to gain the upper eastern edge of the Rosenlauigletscher (glacier) at around 3020m. (2022 fixed rope or abseil).Now trend southwards to gain the Ränfenjoch 3040 m and on to the moderately steep snow slope of the Ränfenhorn. Climb this (southeast direction) to gain the summit rocks north of the summit, then follow these to the highest point (3255 m). Alternative: Instead of descending south-west onto the glacier, the Dossen can be crossed in its entirety via P.3144, past several bivouac sites down to the Ränfenjoch where you enter the glacier.
Fore-summit (P. 3643 m) - Rosenhorn 3688m
Follow the ridge directly without much difficulty to the main summit.
Descent
Descend the ascent route.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

The Rosenhorn was first climbed from the Gauli side by the former Neuchâtel Scientists' Guild members Desor, Dupasquier, Dollfus and Stengel, who accomplished the first ascent on August 28, 1844 with the mountain guides Johann Warren, Melchior Bannholzer and Johann Jaun.

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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