From East via the Rohrfirn (glacier) | Alpinism

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- From East via the Rohrfirn (glacier)
- Von Meien über den Kartigelfirn
From East via the Rohrfirn (glacier)

From East via the Rohrfirn (glacier) (Normal route) Rohrspitzli 3219 m

Difficulty

PD, 2b
Ascent

3:30–4 h, 1115 m
Descent

2:30–3 h, 1115 m

An interesting tour, offering variety with a section of alpine hiking, a short glacier crossing and an easy final climb. In the first section you follow a well-marked path to the Bandlücke (pass). From here the path ends, but the climbing remains easy as you ascend the sad remains of the Rohrfirn glacier. Access the a saddle where a simple blocky ridge leads to the summit. Caution: the passage from the glacier to the ridge is difficult or no longer possible in midsummer, when the snow pack is gone (state as of July 2023)! An alternative is the east ridge to the Spitzli and then the connecting ridge Spitzli - Rohrspitzli, but this is longer and more demanding. The Rohrspitzli was first climbed in 1888 in a bold solo effort by the famous Zurich climber Carl Seelig. Today it is a popular winter destination with good access from the Meiental valley. In summer however the summit is rarely visited, despite being a rewarding tour with great views into the Urner Reuss valley.

Route to the Rohrspitzli from the Bandlücke pass. (07/2016) © Verena Gisler

Route to the Rohrspitli from the Bandücke over granite slabs. (07/2016) © Verena Gisler

Rohrspitzli in the center seen from around Bandlücke. © Franz Ulrich

On the remains of the Rohrfirn glacier.. © Franz Ulrich

The key passage up to the ridge, difficult or no more possible when the snow is completely gone. © Franz Ulrich

On the easy ridge to the summit. © Franz Ulrich

Route description

Salbithütte - Bandlücke

From the Salbithütte a red-white marked path leads to the Bandlücke (2356 m).

Bandlücke - Rohrfirn - Rohrspitzli

From the gap, head west over scree and snow fields, staying to the right of the ridge, to join the meager remains of the Rohrfirn glacier. Crossing the glacier, you reach the gap between Rohrspitzli and P. 3110 and climb the gentle blocky north east ridge to the summit.

Spitzli - Rohsrpitzli

If access to the ridge is no longer possible, you can reach the Spitzli via its east ridge (see separate route) and climb the connecting ridge to the Rohrspitzli. Sometimes fragile rock, possible bypasses on the right, WS+.

Descent

Follow the route of Ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Salbithütte SAC (2105 m)

Difficulty: the passage from the glacier to the ridge is difficult or no longer possible in midsummer, when the snow pack is gone! An alternative is the east ridge to the Spitzli and then the connecting ridge Spitzli - Rohrspitzli, but this is longer and more demanding.

Waypoints

Bandlücke (2357 m)

Übergang von der Salbithütte zum weitläufigen Kessel des Rohr. Eine sehr lohnende Alpinwanderung führt von der Bandlücke zu den beiden Rohrseen (Gross See und Chli See) und weiter nach Wassen.

History: Carl Seelig, 19. August 1888

Neighbor summit

Meiggelenstock (2416 m)

From the Bandlücke easy climbing leads eastwards to the summit and its fantastic view into the Upper Reuss Valley. Alternatively, the blue-white marked path via slabs can be used, but this gives extra descent and re-ascent.