Via ferrata d'Evolène | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Via ferrata d'Evolène Rocs de Villa 1710 m

  • Difficulty
    K5+
  • Ascent
    1 h, 260 m
  • Mountain Experience
    1 / 4
  • Power
    4 / 4
  • Endurance
    1 / 4
  • Psyche
    3 / 4

There are plenty of impressive and famous passages in the "Rocs de Villa" high above Evolène: the entrance wall is called "Mur du Grand Duc", i.e. the eagle owl wall, the "Vire des Chamois" is the chamois ledge. In the big wall almost vertically above the village, one will hardly have time for a break with the view, at least not in the scary overhang. The official name of the via ferrata is "Via ferrata d'Evolène Région".

Route description

Approach
Via ferrata d'Evolène
The first sector is called Mur du Grand Duc. This wall is overcome via various vertical, sometimes slightly overhanging passages, between which are traverse ledges. Finally, a long, diagonal climb leads leftward to an airy ladder section before the grass band is reached, the Vire des Chamois. It is possible to exit to the right (south) here. Alternatively, the via ferrata continues northwards along this grass band: first down a bit, then up a long way to the point where you have to down climb on rock to reach a traverse across a vertical wall. Shortly thereafter you are at the foot (about 1610 m) of the Grand Mur. Here is another possible exit, which does not look very inviting. The way forward looks also uninviting but you've got this far ... have courage: the next bit, up under the overhang is not that bad. Then the rock begins to tilt outwards - and the body with it; The carabiners can be weighted in this position, but the crook of the arm works well too. Now it really gets interesting, and there is only one thing to do: keep grabbing the next iron bar, and pull yourself up, up, up. Use your legs, making sure your shoes don't slip. And soon the crux will be over. The rest of the ascent through the Great Wall will seem a 'walk in the park' - until one last surprise: a fragile step, covered in wire netting, which you must more or less elegantly shuffle over. Where the via ferrata ends at ca. 1680 meters, the "Sortie des héros" (exit of heroes) board hangs. From here a path descends through sparse larch forest to a lookout point (about 1660 m) with a bench and route book.
Possible exits.
From the grass band it is possible to exit rightwards (southeast).
Descent

Additional information

Character

K5 + (overhang of the Grand Mur), K4 + (also there and in the Mur du Grand Duc at the beginning of the climb), K3 (one spot on the Vire des Chamois - the traverse in the middle). A well secured, three stage and 500 m long via ferrata in the rock faces east of the village Evolène. Each sector could also be done on its own. Shady in the morning, especially the big wall with the overhang. The equipment can be rented at Sport Evasion towards the northern end of the village.

Time

Total time 2 hours. Approach ½ hour. Via ferrata 1 hour. Descent ½ hour.

Signalisation

Well marked.

History
Various

Opening hours

The via ferrata is open from about the beginning of May to the end of October (depending on the conditions).

Info www.valais.ch/en/touren/other-summer-sports/fixed-rope-routes/via-ferrata-of-evolene

Author

Daniel Anker

Daniel Anker is a Bernese author and photographer. The historian has written around 40 ski tour, hiking, via ferrata and mountain bike guide books as well as detailed monographs on individual peaks in Switzerland.

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