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- Via ferrata Rochers de Naye
Via ferrata Rochers de Naye

Via ferrata Rochers de Naye Rochers de Naye 2042 m

Difficulty

K5-
Ascent

1:30 h, 160 m
Mountain Experience

1 / 4
Power

4 / 4
Endurance

2 / 4
Psyche

3 / 4

"Congratulations, Claude!", I emailed Claude Remy after completion of the via ferrata at end of October 2009. Claude Remy is an avid climber and alpine historian who has formed, together with his brother Yves, one of the leading rope teams of our time. Since 1970, the two have pioneered more than 1,500 first ascents in the mountains of the world; many of them becoming modern climbing classics. Claude Remy, along with Jean-Claude Hefti, also determined the course of the new Via ferrata, opened in 2008, on his own Rochers de Naye mountain. I was excited: In terms of ferratas it must be a 'grande course'; a great route which almost deserves and alpine grade of TD. The beginning is stiff, and later, the exit from the cave proves to be burley. In short, there are more than a few places where you'll need to have some juice in your arms, or otherwise very good technique. The scenery is grandiose, Lake Geneva, Caux, the cogwheel train. Top out with sun, happiness, and marmots.

View onto Gouffre de Nitonand and Lake Geneva behind © Daniel Anker

Starting wall, talk about easing into it. © Hans Peter Müller

Route description

Approach

Via ferrata Rochers de Naye

Blimey! Straight into a 50-meter-high, vertical to overhanging section (K5-) - the forearms get pumped immediately! Once you're sufficiently 'broken in' the steepness starts to decrease. A rope bridge leads into a cave (Gouffre de Niton, aka Grotto à Lemmy) - here you can benefit from short (or longer) break. The next bit requires courage and strength (K5-) before slackening off again (though arm strength is repeatedly needed on the following diagonal ramp which leads up to a grassy band, which leads then down and up to a junction. You may either finish through a vertical corner ("échappatoire", 40 m) - between the 1st of May and the 1st of July you must use this exit as the harder variation is closed due to breeding birds. Otherwise, if you're up for the challenge, descend along the grassy band, then climb up a slab, move diagonally to the left over another, exposed slab to a daunting overhang (K5 +). The end is reached at about 1990 meters.

Descent

Variant through the Grottes de Naye

Related route: Durch die Grottes de Naye

Additional information

Character: If you take the very difficult crux (overhang!) K5 +, or K5- without. A well-secured, sporty ferrata in a class of its own on one of the most famous and best panoramic mountains in Switzerland. The Via ferrata through the 150 meter high northwest face of the Rochers de Naye is scattered with sections requiring power and technique, but is well worth it for the breathtaking scenery high above Lake Geneva. Most beautiful in the afternoon, when the sun illuminates the limestone cliffs. From 1 May to 1 July the final part is closed due to breeding season; the alternative lower exit is rated at K4. Equipment can be rented at Glion station.