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From the station Klein Matterhorn via the Southwest Ridge (Normal route) Pollux 4090 m
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- Difficulty
- PD+, 3a
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- Ascent
- 3:30–4 h, 426 m
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- Descent
- 212 m
This is a short and easy route in good conditions, it can also be used as a quick descent. However, there is often blank ice, which greatly increases the difficulties. Good combined with a descent to Rifugio Guide d'Ayas.
Route description
Station Klein Matterhorn - Breithornpass
From the station Klein Matterhorn (3817 m) head initially SSE and then eastwards to P. 3824 of Breithornpass.
Breithornpass - Pollux
From the Breithorn Pass (P. 3824) drop down a little, then contour round on the southern flanks of the mountain, beneath P. 3831 and along the 3700 m contour line until you reach the Schwarztor, 1½ hrs. On this traverse pay attention to the large, often poorly covered crevasses (most in the direction of travel).
Tracks lead (nearly always) up, first on the left, then on the right-hand side of the SW ridge. Further on, avoid a small tower system, taking a short detour to the right before re-joining the ridge via a slab. Continue following tracks to reach the foot of a large, vertical, red tower. To this one's left (western) side you'll find another slab, adorned with fixed ropes, which leads to a corner. The corner (grade 3a) takes you once more onto ridge behind the tower. From here more slabs (chains, fixed rope) lead out onto to the summit ridge. Now frolic safely up the snow ridge and reach the summit (4090 m) easy, 1½ hours.
Descent
Down the route of ascent.
Additional information
- Departure and arrival point
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Klein Matterhorn, Bergstation (3817 m)
Informationen zur Seilbahn Zermatt–Klein Matterhorn: www.zermatt.ch/Bahnen-Pisten
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- Waypoints
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- History
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Jules Jacot with the mountain guides Josef-Marie Perren and Peter Taugwalder, 1. August 1864.
