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From Rifugio Guide d'Ayas via the SW-Ridge Pollux 4090 m
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- Difficulty
- PD+, 3a
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- Ascent
- 2:30–3 h, 670 m
A short and easy route in good conditions, it can also be used as a quick descent. However the route is often blank, which greatly increases the difficulties. Can be combined with an alternative descent, to the mountain station Klein Matterhorn for example.
Route description
Rif. Guide d'Ayas (IT) - Foof of the SW-Ridge Pollux
From the Rifugio Guide d'Ayas (about 3394 m), climb north east over the Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra, direction Zwillingsjoch / Passo di Verra, then arc left to the foot of the SW-Ridge, 1 hour. There you meet the normal route from the Klein Matterhorn station.
Foot of the SW-Ridge - Pollux
Tracks lead (nearly always) up, first on the left, then on the right-hand side of the SW ridge. Further on, avoid a small tower system, taking a short detour to the right before re-joining the ridge via a slab. Continue following tracks to reach the foot of a large, vertical, red tower. To this one's left (western) side you'll find another slab, adorned with fixed ropes, which leads to a corner. The corner (grade 3a) takes you once more onto ridge behind the tower. From here more slabs (chains, fixed rope) lead out onto to the summit ridge. Now frolic safely up the snow ridge and reach the summit (4090 m) easy, 1½ hours.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- History
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Jules Jacot with mountain guides Josef-Marie Perren and Peter Taugwalder, 1. August 1864.
