From Camona da Terri via the West ridge. | Alpinism

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Home
Huts and Tours
- SAC Route Portal
- Subscribe to the SAC Route Portal
SAC Route Portal
Piz Vial
- Ski tour
- Alpinism
Alpinism
- From Camona da Terri via the West ridge.
From Camona da Terri via the West ridge.

From Camona da Terri via the West ridge. (Normal route) Piz Vial 3168 m

Difficulty

PD, 2a
Ascent

4 h, 1050 m
Descent

1050 m

Beautiful, simple ridge climbing high above the Greina plains. The west ridge begins from the saddle (P. 2953), the lowest point between Piz Gaglianera and Piz Vial. At first it leads eastwards over talus, before steering horizontally round to the northeast and ending in a steep rise to the summit. This last section is sharp and sometimes unstable, it can be bypassed on the south flank or directly climbed.

Approximate route via the West Ridge, blue: the descent through the south flank (seen from ridge on Piz Galglianera) © Fabian Lippuner

South flank of Piz Vial with the approximate route (in red) via west ridge, and the descent (in blue) through the south flank. © Fabian Lippuner

Shortly before Passo della Greina, soon one turns right (north) © Christoph Giger

In ascent in the small valley. Below: the talus field, before which you leave the footpath. © Christoph Giger

On the Westgrat at P. 2953, in the background: Piz Gaglianera and Valdraus behind. © Christoph Giger

The flattening, ca. 3100 m. © Fabian Lippuner

The summit tower, climbed direct at grade III. © Fabian Lippuner

Last metres to the summit. © Fabian Lippuner

Route description

Camona da Terri - shortly before Passo della Greina

Follow the marked footpath from Camona da Terri, westwards past Muot la Greina and into the Greina plains. Head along the northern side of the Rein da Sumvitg to a talus field about 1 km before the Passo della Greina, about 1 hour.

Shortly before Passo della Greina - P. 2953 - West ridge - Piz Vial

Leave the footpath by the talus field, climb north through the small valley and pass a melt water lake at P. 2750 to reach the starkly depleted glacier. Continue across glacier and join the ridge between Piz Gaglianera and Piz Vial at P. 2953. With more snow, P. 2953 is easier to reach. From here follow the ridge (easy climbing, 2a) to the flattening at about 3100 m (cairns) and continue until below the steep summit ridges. Sloping talus leads into the southern flank, after which you main join the upper part of the southeast ridge to gain the summit.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent, of descent the south flank (easiest descent option).

Additional information

Departure point

Terrihütte SAC (2170 m)

Time: The tour can also be tackled from the Capanna Scaletta (about half an hour shorter) or from the Capanna Motterascio (also about half an hour shorter).

Difficulty: The summit can also be climbed directly via the southern flank (described here as the descent route), which reduce the difficulties to WS- or T5, time saved: just under an hour.

When climbing directly along the west ridge: grade III (ZS +).