Normalroute from Diavolezza mountain station | Alpinism

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Normalroute from Diavolezza mountain station

Normalroute from Diavolezza mountain station (Normal route) Piz Palü 3900 m

Difficulty

PD, I
Ascent

4–5 h, 1150 m
Descent

2:30–3 h, 1150 m

The normal route from the Diavolezza is, in good conditions, a wonderful glacier tour with an imposing ridge at the end. Often only the eastern summit (3882 m) is climbed. The middle peak (3900 m, highest peak of the Piz Palü) and the Piz Spinas (3822 m) are crosses during a full traverse of the mountain. As winter snows melt away, the glacier may become challenging and the path through the Cambrena-Icefall a labyrinth.

Normal route to the East Summit. © Marco Bomio

View from the Fuorcla Vadret towards Piz Palü. © Marco Bomio

View up to the nameless saddle left of the Ostgipfels © Marco Bomio

In descent, just below the saddle. © Marco Bomio

The final section varies depending on conditions, obviously when its blank ice its much harder. © Marco Bomio

Shortly before the East Summit. © Marco Bomio

Piz Palü, seen from Diavolezza. © Marco Bomio

Route description

Diavolezza Bergstation - Vadret Pers (glacier)

From Diavolezza, 2972 m, follow the path towards the top station of the chairlift then on along the east side of Piz Trovat to Fuorcla Trovat at 3017 m. Continue, slightly uphill past P. 3039 (and about 400 m southeast of Fuorcla Trovat) to the Vadret Pers (glacier). The direct descent from the Fuorcla Trovat to the Vadret Pers is no longer recommended.

Vadret Pers - Piz Palü East Summit

On the Vadret Pers, head south past the NW-foot of Piz Cambrena and begin the zigzag climb around the crevasses of the Cambrena-Icefall. Above the icefall and via firn slopes you'll reach a shallow hollow at about 3400 m, which usually serves as a resting place and is not least known for this reason as the "Schnapsboden". From here climb a steep slope around some large crevasses and reach the saddle at 3729 m. A final steep firn slope, which soon narrows into the ridge, leads you up to the E-summit of Piz Palü.

Descent

Follow the route of descent. Or traverse the entire mountain (significantly harder and more committing!).

Additional information

Departure point

Diavolezza, summit station (2972 m)

www.diavolezza.ch

Get there Google Maps

Diavolezza

Time: The time needed to negotiate the Cambren-icefall is not normally significant at present.

Difficulty: With no tracks. e.g. after fresh snow, route finding can be a challenge.

Waypoints

Fuorcla Trovat (3017 m)

History: The east summit was probably first 'conquered' by Oswald Heer, Meuli and Peter Flury with Johann Vaduz and the chamois hunter Gian Market Colani on 12 August 1835.

First ascent of the main summit by K.E. Digby with Peter Jenny and a porter in 1866.

First full traverse by local guides Hans and Christian Grass with guests A.Wachtler, Wallner and Georg.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.