South-east ridge | Mountain hiking | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Piz Cotschen
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South-east ridge

South-east ridge (Normal route) Piz Cotschen 3029 m

Difficulty

T5
Ascent

4:30 h, 1430 m
Descent

3 h, 1650 m

The secondary summit is for the ski tourists, the main summit is for the hikers

Piz Cotschen («red peak») is also a target in winter, but generally the ski tourists are content with the secondary summit. The passage to the main summit involves some climbing, which makes it an endeavour for the summer. Those who want to spread the tour over two days can spend the night in Chamonna Cler.

The crown of peaks above Lai Raduond. Slightly left of the centre is Piz Nuna. (07/2009) © Fredy Joss

View from the secondary summit across the middle summit to the main summit of Piz Cotschen. (07/2009) © Fredy Joss

Route description

Guarda – west of Chamonna Cler

Above Guarda there is a trail leading north-eastward and gently upwards. Before Alp Murtera Dadoura there is a loss of ca. 20 metres of vertical height. Above Alp Maranguns (2302 m) a detour to the left to Lai Raduond (add 20 min.) is well worthwhile. The trail to Chamonna Cler (2474 m) branches off to the right. Behind the cabin follow the mountain trail about 150 m through a small valley, then leave the marked trail.

West of Chamonna Cler – Piz Cotschen – Chamonna Cler

From west of Chamonna Cler ascend pathless to the south-east ridge of Piz Cotschen, which you reach at about P. 2537. Now follow the ridge. Through the scree a faint path and cairns help to find the way. From the secondary summit (2972 m) you can overlook the rocky middle summit (3011 m) and the main summit. A faint path leads, slightly exposed, to the foot of the middle summit. Now bypass the middle summit on the west. It is not easy to distinguish the route. Faint paths and some small cairns are noticeable. Before the summit structure of the middle summit descend slightly to the left (west), and then you are able to traverse the very steep face on small ledges and boulders. Where a wall with a chimney blocks the way, climb up about 7 m through a couloir on the right (not through the chimney; II). Then you can continue to traverse to the left on ledges to reach the flat block field behind the middle summit. Across a saddle and on the short ridge with scree and rubble you reach the main summit. Descend to Chamonna Cler on the same route.

Chamonna Cler – Ardez

From Chamonna Cler follow the mountain trail towards Ardez via Muot Aut and Muot da l’Hom (2329 m, wonderful vantage point). On steep pastures descend to P. 2105. From here on follow the alp road to Ardez via Mundaditsch and Chöglias.

Additional information

Departure point

Guarda (1654 m)

Lavin, Guarda und Ardez sind Bergsteigerdörfer... www.bergsteigerdoerfer.org/5933-0-Bergsteigerdorf-Lavin-Guarda-Ardez.html

Get there Google Maps

Guarda, cumün

End point

Ardez, Bahnhof (1432 m)

Get there Google Maps

Ardez

Difficulty / Material: From Guarda or Ardez to Chamonna Cler the trail is marked white-red-white. From there on there are no trails, but occasionally a faint path and cairns. On the summit ridge some climbing (one passage II) in steep terrain and on brittle rock is required. The difficulties lie on the western side of the summit, as it remains wet or icy for a longer period after bad weather. The grade to the secondary summit (summit book) is T3.

Waypoints

Chamonna Cler (2475 m)

You can spread the tour to two days by spending the night in this cabin.

Various

Guarda (1654 m)

Lavin, Guarda und Ardez sind Bergsteigerdörfer... www.bergsteigerdoerfer.org/5933-0-Bergsteigerdorf-Lavin-Guarda-Ardez.html