South Ridge | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Slab Steep wall Ridge Especially Beautiful route

South Ridge Piz Balzet 2869 m

  • Difficulty
    4b (4a)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    9 P / 2–4 h, 160 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    S / Granite
  • Altitude start
    2690 m

The south ridge on Piz Blazet is one of the most beautiful routes of this difficulty in the entire Albigna area. Orientation, rare opportunities for protection, and a demanding descent make the tour an alpine climb, despite the low nominal level of difficulty, which requires the appropriate skillset.

Route description

South Ridge
For route details see Topo.
Descent

Additional information

Protection
Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope
50m
Quick draws
10
Stoppers
Friends
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
+++
Abseiling possible
-
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Time

This still classically secured route requires alpine skills in finding the optimal line and placing natural gear. Therefore, the time required for the ascent can vary greatly depending on personal skills and knowledge.

Rock Type / Quality

Best granite. Everything is offered: Slabs, flakes, cracks, steep steps, ridge climbing...

Protection / Material

Only a few pitons in place. Secure with nuts and friends. In the upper part good short-roping skills are required.

Descent

The descent from Piz Balzet is often underestimated and less experienced rope teams often need almost as long as for the ascent. Walking/climbing on short ropes, abseiling (min. 25m) and exposed rugged terrain require knowledge of alpine mountaineering. Solid shoes are a pre-requisite.

History

Walter Risch solo in 1922

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