Traverse Northwest to Northeast Ridge. | Alpinism

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Piz Argient
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- Traverse Northwest to Northeast Ridge.
Traverse Northwest to Northeast Ridge.

Traverse Northwest to Northeast Ridge. (Normal route) Piz Argient 3945 m

Difficulty

PD, I
Ascent

1:30–2 h, 400 m
Descent

1–1:30 h, 400 m

The traverse of Piz Argient (3942 m) from Rifugio Marco e Rosa is a manageable route for beginners. Do not however underestimate the approach over the glacier: numerous crevasses. The correct skills and equipment for normal glacier travel is obligatory.

Traverse of Piz Argient from Rifugio Marco e Rosa © Marco Bomio

Piz Argient from the north. © Marco Bomio

Easy descent via the northeast ridge, direction Piz Zupò. © Marco Bomio

Route description

Rifugio Marco e Rosa - Piz Argient

From Rifugio Marco e Rosa (3597 m), cross the Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza plateau west towards the Bellavistaterrace. Once the crevasses allow, turn right (south) and ascend into the glacial basin between Piz Argient and Piz Zupò. Trend rightwards (east), passing P. 3811 (a snowy shoulder) and join into northwest ridge. Follow the northwest ridge (easy climbing) to reach the summit.

Piz Argient - Rifugio Marco e Rosa

Descend the equally straightforward northeast ridge down to the saddle "Fuorcla da Zupò" (3844 m). From here head northwards down the glacier and eventually join your ascent tracks before the big crevasse zone, and follow them back to the hut.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Rifugio Marco e Rosa (3597 m)

Waypoints

Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza (3583 m)

Fuorcla dal Zupò (3844 m)

History: FA by Seiler and Seldeneck with Christian Grass the Elder, Johann Balthasar Walther and a chamois hunter, 1869.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.