Via Fritz | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Via Fritz (Normal route) Pfriendler 2514 m

Difficulty

5c (5b+)
Pitches / Height Difference

9 P / 4 h, 215 m
Exposition / Rock Type

S / Gneiss
Altitude start

2340 m

This modest summit offers extraordinary gneiss with many holds, as large and ergonomic as one can imagine. It is also relatively easy to climb, despite the sometimes impressive steepness. With the snowy Sustenhorn as a backdrop there's a real alpine atmosphere. The Via Fritz is the easiest route to the summit of the Pfriendler and probably one of the oldest. In the years when the canton of Bern was still conducting Jungend & Sport courses on the Steingletscher, some very rewarding routes were set up here. The rock on Via Fritz is great and the route follows a logical line with a very diverse range of climbing: a steep slab, cracks, corners, a chimney, traversing and even a small overhang.

A party on the route "Tröimli". Via Fritz runs to the left of them. © Remy Claude

Route description

Steingletscher - start of the route

From the Steingletscher, follow the hiking trail north. At the fork, turn left (W), then northwards and cross the pass road. Follow the at-first-well-marked trail, then get lost while cross the talus slope, before finding it again higher up and crossing over the base of the route at circa 2340 m.

Related route: Approach to the Pfriendler

Via Fritz

See topo.

Descent

Descend a steep rocky track SE (SW of the main buttress and the climbing routes). Occasional down climbing sections. It is also possible to abseil the routes.

Related route: Descent from the Pfriendler

Additional information

Protection: Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope: 2x50m
Quick draws: 10
Stoppers: -
Friends: -
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: -
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Descent: It is possible to downclimb from the summit via the west ridge and then descend along a clearly visible path to the foot of the wall. If you want to descend, you can do so on an abseil (2 x 50-metre ropes required).