South East Ridge from the Cavardirashütte | Alpinism

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Oberalpstock / Piz Tgietschen
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- South East Ridge from the Cavardirashütte
- Von der Etzlihütte über die Fuorcla da Strem Sut
South East Ridge from the Cavardirashütte

South East Ridge from the Cavardirashütte (Normal route) Oberalpstock / Piz Tgietschen 3328 m

Difficulty

PD, 3a
Ascent

3:30–4 h, 700 m
Descent

2–2:30 h, 700 m

In good conditions, the normal route over the southeast flank to Oberalpstock is a relatively easy glacier tour. The route has a steep section of snowfield and a short rocky section just below the summit. This transition from glacier to the rock can be tricky in late summer when the snow is low; any rockfall sweeps the steep flank and projectiles threaten the ascent line. Therefore, this route is recommended rather at the beginning of the summer. This problem was not known to the first-time climber Father Placidus a Spescha from Disentis. On his visit in 1793, the pioneer of the Uri mountains fought through deep snow and, just below the summit, almost fell victim to an avalanche with his partner Joseph Senoner from Gröden.

The normal route to the summit. (08/2013) © Manuela Fischer

Route glacier - rock as in 2023. (07/2023) © Moritz Ruckstuhl

The mighty Oberalpstock with Stremhörnern, Piz Ault and the increasingly dwindling Brunnifirn. (08/2016) © Manuela Fischer

Route description

From the Camona da Cavardiras (hut) to Brunnifirn

From the Camona da Cavardiras (2649 m) follow the hut trail westward to Fuorcla da Cavardiras (2624 m) and onto the flat Brunnifirn.

Across the Brunnifirn to Oberalpstock

Cross the glacier plane of the Brunnifirn to the west and reach the flat intermediate section at 2920 m via a first steep step. A second steep section leads to Fuorcla da Strem Sura (3112m). Now cross the steep summit slope (tricky with less snow) northwest to reach the rocks at about 3260. A gully ( brittle, III) to a belay (rappelling possible on the descent). Then climb over scree and then up over more blockier terrain. In doing so, one should avoid the danger of falling stones in gullies to the west. Continue up then easily along a short slice of ridge to the summit.

Abstieg vom Oberalstock zur Camona da Cavardiras

Follow the route of ascent

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Camona da Cavardiras CAS (2649 m)

Waypoints

Fuorcla da Cavardiras (2624 m)

Übergang vom Val Cavardiras ins Brunnital und weiter hinunter ins Maderanertal nach Bristen. Der Hüttenweg zur Camona da Cavardiras führt ebenfalls über diesen sanften Pass.