Gemschgrätli | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Gemschgrätli Nüneneflue / Nünenen 2102 m

Difficulty

5a (4b)
Pitches / Height Difference

8 P / 200 m
Exposition / Rock Type

N, NW / Limestone
Altitude start

1850 m

Here you will find pretty much the only rewarding rock climbing tour in the Gantrisch area. It climbs northwestwards over a striking rock ridge, which is surprisingly easy to climb. Some beautiful climbing sections alternate with grassy scrambles. Though the ascent is short, it is very steep, and the descent from the summit involves abseiling in exposed terrain, so this tour should not be underestimated. The Gemschgrätli has been recently re-equipped.

Gemschgrätli, crux pitch © Martin Gerber

On the striking ridge of the Gemschgrätli © Gerber Martin

Descent, seen from Leiterepass. © Gerber Martin

Route description

Approach

Related route: Approach Gemschgrätli

Gemschgrätli

See topo.

Summit - West ridge till after the abseils.

From the summit descend the West-ridge to a 25 m abseil. Abseil this... and continue!

Descent

Related route: Descent from Nüneneflue (W-ridge)

Additional information

Protection: Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope: 50m
Quick draws: 10
Stoppers: ✔
Friends: -
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: ++
Abseiling possible: -
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Protection / Material: On the easy (grade 2-3) sections on the grassy rib, there is not a lot of protection for the leader, but the stances are bolted.

Descent: Der Abstieg darf bei dieser Tour nicht unterschätzt werden. Er führt über den Westgrat (25-Meter-Abseilstelle) und via Leiternpass zurück zur Wasserscheide. Nach der Abseilstelle kann in den Graspartien oberhalb des Leiternpasses auch gesichert werden (Stände gebohrt).