From the Cabane du Vélan via the Northeast Flank | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the Cabane du Vélan via the Northeast Flank (Normal route) Mont Vélan 3722 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    4:30–5 h, 1173 m
  • Descent
    86 m

This is the classic ascent route. First cross the Glacier du Tseudet to the Col de la Gouille and climb over the Glacier de Valsorey to the summit.

Route description

Cabane du Vélan - Glacier du Tseudet
From the Cabane du Vélan (2642 m) follow the footpath and the water pipe to SSW on the Glacier du Tseudet.
Glacier du Tseudet - Col de la Gouille
Head first south to pass the serac zone on the right. Then cross the main body of the glacier south-eastwards toward Col de la Gouille, at the SW foot of the Mont de la Gouille. Climb directly up the rocks to reach Col de la Gouille (fixed chain), 2 hours.
Col de la Gouille - Mont Vélan
From the Col de la Gouille (3148 m) down-climb climb 50 m over steep rocks (2a, chains, pitons/bolts) to reach the Glacier de Valsorey. Climb southwards over the gently sloping glacier in the direction of Col des Chamois. Now continue in a SW direction, past the Pointe du Capucin and the Col du Capucin to the Tête de Riondet. Arc progressively rightwards (west) to reach the east flank of Mont Vélan, and climb it to the top (2½ hours).
Descent
Down the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

It is not known who first climbed this route.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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