Vom Bivouac Fiorio (S-Flank und SE-Ridge) | Alpinism

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Vom Bivouac Fiorio (S-Flank und SE-Ridge) Mont Dolent 3819 m

Difficulty

PD, I
Ascent

4–5 h, 1183 m
Descent

96 m

This is the classic route, as used during the first ascent. From the bivouac climb over the glaciated S-Flank and then take the SE Ridge to the summit. A massive crevasse at about 3500 m is increasingly causing problems. The variant describes a way to bypass it.

Normal route to Mont Dolent from Bivouac Fiorio (S-Flank und SE-Ridge) © camptocap.org / Christian / collaboratif (CC by-sa)

Mont Dolent from the North © Roduit Olivier

Route description

Bivacco Fiorio - Glacier de Pré de Bard

From Bivacco Fiorio (2729 m), cross the screes on faint paths northnorthwestwards to the eastern branch of Glacier de Pré de Bard thats leads to Mont Dolent. You join the ice at about 3100m. 1:15 hrs.

Glacier de Pré de Bard - Mont Dolent

Climb (depending on the crevasse situation on the left (NE) between the rocky islands 3188 m and 3336 m. Negotiate the large crevasse near P. 3579 to the west, to arrive at a broad firn saddle, NW of P. 3627, 3 hrs. Now follow the SE firn ridge, which is followed by a couloir with easy climbing but often loose rock. The couloir flattens out and leads onto the shoulder (about 3774 m). From here, follow the ridge direct (enjoyable blocky climbing and/or firn ridge) to the summit of Mont Dolent (3820 m), 1 hour. Variant: In the high season, overcoming the large crevasse can present major difficulties. Before nearing the crevasse keep further left and climb around to, then up the not very steep, but sometimes icy slope to the rocks of the SE ridge beyond the broad Firnsattel.

Descent

Down the route of ascent.