Via the South East Ridge. | Alpinism

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- Via the South East Ridge.
Via the South East Ridge.

Via the South East Ridge. (Normal route) Mittaghorn (Lötschental) 3892 m

Difficulty

PD, I
Ascent

2–3 h, 670 m

In Switzerland there are maybe a dozen mountains over 2000 meters with the name Mittaghorn. By far the highest is the one described here in the chain from the Jungfrau to the Tschingelhorn on the Bern-Wallis border. As with the other Mittaghorns (or Midday Peaks), it gets its name because the sun is seen to be above the summit at noon from a certain vantage point, in this case from the Lauterbrunnen valley. In good conditions this can be a short and rewarding tour from the Hollandiahütte. However with strong "Ausaperung" - melting of the snows due to radiation, the bergschrund beneath the Anujoch or the final ridge can prove problematic.

Mittaghorn from the East, in profile the South east Ridge leading left from the summit. © Bomio Marco

From Anujoch the ridge leads another to the foresummit. © Bomio Marco

Summit ridge to the pre-summit(here with a tricky, thin layer of powder snow) Mittaghorn, photographed from the rocky part after the Anujoch. © Pascal Trösch

Looking back from the rocky part between the foresummit ridge and Anujoch. © Pascal Trösch

View from the foresummit towards the south. © Pascal Trösch

On the summit ridge. View towards the Aletschhorn (centre left) © Bomio Marco

Route description

Hollandiahütte 3240m to the Anujoch 3629m

From the hut ascend over the Äbeni Fluh Firn (glacier) beneath the Anungrat to your left (east) before climbing a short steep slope to gain the Anujoch (saddle) 3629 m. Roughly 1hr from the hut.

Anujoch 3629m to Mittaghorn 3892m

From the Anujoch cross a section of rock ridge, then follow the narrow snow ridge past point 3880 m and on to the top 3892 m.

Descent

Down the Ascent route.

Additional information

Departure point

Hollandiahütte SAC (3238 m)

Difficulty: However with strong "Ausaperung" - melting of the snows due to radiation, the bergschrund beneath the Anujoch or the final ridge can prove problematic.

Waypoints

Anujoch (3629 m)

History: First ascent made by Charles Montandon, A. Ringier und Adolf Rubin on 19. August 1878.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.