Südkante | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Südkante Mittagfluh (Grimsel) 1808 m

Difficulty

5b (5a)
Pitches / Height Difference

10 P / 5 h, 270 m
Exposition / Rock Type

S / Granite
Altitude start

1440 m

Do not be intimidated by the overhanging western wall of the Mittagfluh, as the Sudkante route runs just right of the arete on the much nicer slabs of the south wall. This wall has several popular routes on it, all with great, structured rock (not always rock-solid on the lower part). The Sudkante is not only the easiest and most diverse route; the exposed views left into the abyss will make you shiver! Warning: If there are several roped parties in the route (which there often is), the rockfall risk increases.

Topo for Sudkante © Devaux Girardin Carine

Route description

Tschingelmad - cliff base

Related route: Approach to Mittagfluh

Südkante

See topo.

Descent

Abseil the route, or climb along the ridge and descend on foot (4 x 20 m abseils to finish).

Related route: Descent

Additional information

Protection: Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope: 2x50m
Quick draws: 12
Stoppers: ✔
Friends: ✔
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: -
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Difficulty: The crux is well bolted, but in some easier sections expect longer run outs.

Rock Type / Quality: The lower part of the wall has more brittle rock. Watch out when multiple parties are about.

Protection / Material: The route is equipped with inox bolts. The belays, consisting of inox plates with carabiners or large rings, are often on comfortable ledges. In view of the large distances between bolts, a set of nuts and Friends (0.5 - 2) is nice to have.

Descent: Challenging either way...

- On foot (take good shoes): Climb 10 minutes up along the ridge (pin trees), then descend on a very steep trail (down climbing here and there). The descent ends with four 20-meter abseils.

- Abseiling over the route: This should be avoided if there are other parties below (rockfall). If there are parties climbing in front of you, consider climbing another route.