From the East | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

From the East Lötschentaler Breithorn 3785 m

  • Difficulty
    PD-
  • Ascent
    5–5 h, 1390 m
  • Descent
    250 m

A rather long tour starting at the Oberaletschhütte, mostly on the glacier. The key passage is overcoming the steep section to the south of the Lonzahörner. Depending on the condition of the glacier it can be tricky or (if all the surface snow is gone) even impossible. The hut warden at the Oberaletschhütte is always willing to give sound advice here. A scenic tour in the heart of the heavily glaciated Oberaletsch Basin. An interesting addition to the tour would be to descend via the Gredetschjoch (saddle) and from there through the lonely Gredetschtal (valley) to the village of Mund.

Route description

Oberaletschhütte - Oberaletschgletscher
From the Oberaletsch hut (2640 m) you can use the winter access path (heading north) to reach the Oberaletsch glacier.
Oberaletschgletscher - Lötschentaler Breithorn
Heading first SW, reach the confluence of the Oberaletsch and Beich Glaciers. Cross over and turn NW onto the Beichgletscher. At about 2650 m follow the curve of the glacier round once more to the SW. From 2900 m, the glacier becomes steeper. The steepest section is normally tackled between P. 3298 and the rocky island northwest of it. Thereafter the angle eases, but be wary of the several large crevasses that lurk here. Continue straight towards the base of the SE summit. To gain the main summit ridge, it is best to climb first up to the rocks of SE summit (P. 3781), traverse this and then descend to the saddle between the SE and main summits. Then follow the narrow firn- and last easy rock ridge to the main summit.

Additional information

Departure point
Time

Je nach Ausaperung und Zustand Gletscherbruch kann die Begehung deutlich mehr Zeit beanspruchen.

Difficulty

Der Zustand des Gletscherbruches kann erheblichen Einfluss auf die Schwierigkeit haben oder eine Begehung sogar verunmöglichen.

History

J. Häberlin with A.& J. von Weissenfluh and J. Rubin, 28. August 1869.

Route last update

Dezember 2017

Author

Bernhard Senn

Bernhard Senn is a physiotherapist specializing in workplace ergonomics and workplace health promotion. Bernhard has been an SAC author since 2013 and will often be found 'out and about' in the mountains; whether with rock gear, skis, mountain bike or paraglider.

Our recommendations

Skitouren Berner Alpen Ost

Skitouren

Skitouren Berner Alpen Ost

Price CHF 44.00
Member price CHF 34.00
Klettern Kombipaket Berner Oberland

Klettern

Klettern Kombipaket Berner Oberland

Price CHF 98.00
Member price CHF 79.00
Tourenportal/App-Abo Jahreszahlung

Subscription to the SAC Route Portal

Tourenportal/App-Abo Jahreszahlung

Price CHF 49.00
Gipfelziele Berner Oberland Grossformat

Berg- und Alpinwandern

Gipfelziele Berner Oberland Grossformat

Price CHF 54.00
Member price CHF 45.00
SAC-Hydro Flask

Equipment

SAC-Hydro Flask

Price CHF 39.00
Member price CHF 35.00
SAC-Taschenmesser

Equipment

SAC-Taschenmesser

Price CHF 57.00
Member price CHF 51.00
SAC-Brändi Dog XS

Equipment

SAC-Brändi Dog XS

Price CHF 66.00
Member price CHF 60.00
Bergsport Sommer

Ausbildung

Bergsport Sommer

Price CHF 59.00
Member price CHF 49.00
Ausbildung Bergwandern / Alpinwandern

Ausbildung

Ausbildung Bergwandern / Alpinwandern

Price CHF 59.00
Member price CHF 49.00
Genussvolle SAC-Hütten

Hütten

New

Genussvolle SAC-Hütten

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 42.00
Die Wandertipps des Schweizer Alpen-Club SAC

Berg- und Alpinwandern

Die Wandertipps des Schweizer Alpen-Club SAC

Price CHF 59.00
Member price CHF 49.00
Les Alpes de la Romandie

Skitouren

New

Les Alpes de la Romandie

Price CHF 59.00
Member price CHF 49.00
feedback