Via ferrata Le Moléson - Le Pilier | Via ferrata

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Le Moléson
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- Via ferrata Le Moléson - Le Pilier
- Via ferrata Le Moléson - La Face
Via ferrata Le Moléson - Le Pilier

Via ferrata Le Moléson - Le Pilier Le Moléson 2002 m

Difficulty

K4
Ascent

2:30 h, 220 m
Mountain Experience

2 / 4
Power

2 / 4
Endurance

2 / 4
Psyche

2 / 4

There are two via ferrata on Gruyère country's home mountain in French-speaking Switzerland: the Via Ferrata de la Face from 2004, which leads through the shady, ca. 300 m high north face; this ferrata is also known as "Voie Hohl" because it partly follows a climbing route once opened by Jacques Hohl. The second ferrata, opened in 2005, leads via the sunny northeast pillar and is, strangely, titled the ferrata du Pilier. One route tastes like ripe Gruyère (creamy?), the other like spicy Vacherin fribourgeois (who can tell?). Those with a strong appetite (not for cheese) may take on both routes in a single same day. For the easiest option take the nicer route to the Moléson (2002 m) via the pillar. Or just take the cable car instead and laugh at the "ferratistis" as they wobble over taut cable bridges. Many carefully placed iron rungs and bars provide support and boost confidence even through the vertical to overhanging sections. Both "iron ways" keep to the rock, avoiding grass where possible. Cow bells in the field below make a nice musical accompaniment to the ferrata goer's clanging karabiners.

Route description

Approach

Via ferrata du Pilier

Head up over grassy rock steps to the start of the vertical north wall (sign). Follow a slightly rising band diagonally left to reach the pillar, where the main difficulties begin. Climb steeply up, just to the right of the arete. After a short traverse the route splits: easier over a short overhang directly up. Or much harder and more exposed crossing right into the wall, then up over roof before turning back left to the normal route (K5). Continue more easily up to a grass slope with a few small pine trees, which interrupts the north face at two-thirds height. At the top of this you will find the route book, and may enter your names. Attack the upper pillar direct, then about half way up traverse left, switching to a parallel pillar which is followed to the top (somewhat exposed).

Descent

Additional information

Character: K4 for Via ferrata du Pilier. The sunnier of the two Gruyère ferratas on the Moléson leads over the striking northeast pillar. A scenic route with some vertical- and two short overhanging sections; variant (not compulsory, very exposed): K5. Better in the morning, because of the sun.

K5 (in two short places), but mostly K4 for Via ferrata de la Face (variant finish K5 +). On the fore-summit (1936 m), both routes unite. Both routes require payment: 4 francs for adults, 2 francs for children; the money is used to maintain the facilities. Open from mid-June to mid-October - when the Moléson aerial cableway is in operation. Via ferrata equipment can be rented at the mid-station Plan-Francey.