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Heuwberg
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South-east ridge

South-east ridge Heuwberg 2593 m

Difficulty

T4+
Ascent

1:45 h, 400 m
Descent

0:45 h, 400 m

Slow and steady wins the race

As everyone knows, there are two ways of climbing on steep rock: alpine climbing and sport climbing. The former is understood as sparsely equipped multipitch routes, the latter as short, generously protected training routes. Similarly one could distinguish steep hiking routes. Thus, there would be mentally and physically demanding alpine hiking and casual sport hiking with a short access, nifty passages and a brisk descent. An example of sport hiking would be the tour to Heuwberg.

On Heuwberg, in the background are Fünffingerstöck. (10/2013) © Marco Volken

On the way to Heuwberg; a sea of fog hides Gadmertal. (10/2013) © Marco Volken

Route description

Susten pass summit – Heuwberg

From the Sustenpass bus stop (2223 m) follow the road up to the pass summit proper. At the signpost right before the Restaurant Hospiz go left and ascend northward on the sometimes rocky, sometimes grassy ridge. At a wooden sign at ca. 2340 m leave the trail towards Guferjoch and Sustlihütte and take «Rundweg Heuwberg». This trail leads to the Heuwberg secondary summit (2483 m). The following 200 m stretch of the ridge is made of fairly solid rock and interspersed with numerous towers. Follow the ridge and bypass most of the towers to the left. Be on the lookout for the white-blue-markings and the very numerous cairns. The last tower is bypassed to the right, and then you stand at the foot of a grassy ridge, which you follow up to Heuwberg (2593 m).

Heuwberg – Susten pass summit

From the summit descend on the ridge to a breach. From there a scree gully runs down eastward. The markings are painted on the rocks of the left rim (the only place where the rock is solid). However, the best itinerary through the short, but fairly tiresome gully (risk of falling rocks) depends on the conditions you encounter. If there is snow, take your ice axe and skid or scramble down; if the snow is melted, traverse right on a faint path at the end of the gully. In any case at about 2420 m you land on the marked trail Guferjoch–Sustenpass. Follow it back to the starting point.

Variant to Sustlihütte

From Sustenpass traverse Heuwberg as described and hike down to the white-blue-white alpine trail. Mostly on snow fields go northward to Guferjoch (2550 m) on this trail. On both sides the saddle is rocky, steep and sometimes exposed, but it is equipped by many fixed ropes, chains and iron rungs for protection. Continue, making a wide arc, via Stöss to Sustlihütte (2 h 45 min. from the summit to the cabin, T4+).

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Susten Summit (2223 m)

Busservice only during the summer months.

Get there Google Maps

Susten Passhöhe

Difficulty / Material: The rocky ridge after P. 2483 requires basic climbing skills (grade I at most). The passages can well be negotiated with a rope for protection and can be mastered even by alpine hiking novices, if accompanied by an experienced person. The descent from the main summit to the breach and the following gully towards Sustenloch also require scrambling and concentration. Caution, risk of falling rocks in the gully.

Waypoints

Guferjoch (2550 m)

Waypoint on the variant. Challenging pass between the Sustli area and Sustenloch, on both sides steep, rocky and equipped with ropes