Sector Mordor | Climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Sector Mordor Herr der Ringe 1150 m

Altitude start

1200 m
Height Wall

18 m
Exposition / Rock Type

N / Gneiss
Difficulty

6a+-8b

18Routes

3a-4c0
5a-5c0
6a-6c4
7a-7c13
8a-9b1

The Mordor and Anduin sectors have a natural cooling system thanks to the nearby caves. In some sectors, the afternoon sun penetrates. The layered structure of the gneiss gives rise to all types of holds. Many of routes require elf like grace and refined body control. Some can be climbed even in light rain.

Topo Mordor (1-10) and Anduin (11-18) © Eric Pointner

Routes

1 Sauron 8b 1 P
2 Balrog 7c+ 1 P
3 Nazgul 7c+ 1 P
4 Troll 7c 1 P
5 Ork 6c 1 P
6 Gorbag 6a+ 1 P
7 Kankra 7c 1 P
8 Schagrat 6a+ 1 P
9 Grischnak 7b 1 P
10 Pallandir 7c+ 1 P
11 Elendil 7a+ 1 P
12 Anarion 7c 1 P
13 Isildur 7b 1 P
14 Gollum 6b 1 P
15 Smeagol 7b 1 P
16 Mithrandir 7c+ 1 P
17 Deagol 7a+ 1 P
18 Tom Bombadil 7b+ 1 P

Additional information

Protection: Very well equipped
Rope: 50m
Quick draws: 10
Stoppers: -
Friends: -
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: -
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: -
Rain sheltered: -
Child friendly terrain: ✔
Child friendly routes: -

Rock type: The rock here is naturally layered and therefore flaky. However, due to the efforts of the developers, as well as traffic over time, the routes are now quite solid.