NW-Grat, Leiterngrat | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Gspaltenhorn
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NW-Grat, Leiterngrat

NW-Grat, Leiterngrat (Normal route) Gspaltenhorn 3436 m

Difficulty

AD-, 2b
Ascent

3:30–4:30 h, 1000 m
Descent

30 m

Beautiful and highly recommended tour starting at the Gspaltenhornhütte. Overall the rock quality on and around this peak is rather bad. On the ridge itself however, its mostly good. The route has become a little more demanding but also more interesting: New solid iron poles and some intermediate bolts were installed since the fixed ropes and other old equipment were removed or replaced in fall 2018. The route, including the approach, is usually completely snow-free during high summer. Without snow the ascent over loose scree, which takes you to the saddle, is rather tedious. The ridge itself while being more technical, is far more enjoyable. Following stormy weather, the rocks are often icy, and crampons/ice axe should be carried (being a north ridge, any snow that does fall is likely to hang around a while). Be prepared and call ahead if you have any doubts; the friendly team of the Gspaltenhornhütte will provide you with up-to-date info.

Route overview Gspaltenhorn Leiterngrat, seen from the west. (09/2018) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Downclimbing into the large crack after P. 3222 (08/2019) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Gspaltenhorn and Leiterngrat to the left (08/2019) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Start of the Leiteregrat above the Bütlassesattel (08/2019) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Exposure on the ridge after P. 3222 (08/2019) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

A "window" in the rock just before the Böse Tritt (08/2019) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

At the upper end of the fixed ropes (08/2019) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Summit (08/2019) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Route description

Gspaltenhornhütte - P. 3222

From the Gspaltenhornhütte (2455 m), follow tracks (at first very clear) northeastward over screes towards the the foot of Bütlasse's impressive south face. As you gain height, the path becomes increasingly vague; head for a blocky gully, keep right at the top of it, then climb straight up to the base of the cliff. Continue along the cliff base to reach the Bütlassesattel (3020 m, 1.5 hours from the hut). Warning! Below the Bütlasssattel (between 2800 m and the saddle itself), there is a risk of rock fall from the S flank of the Bütlasse. From here follow good tracks over talus to the foot of a rocky shoulder at P. 3222.

P. 3222 - Gspaltenhorn

Follow faint tracks up from P. 3222, then climb the rocky ridge (grade II). Some slightly harder sections lead to a final tower before a saddle. Descend from this last tower rightwards, then down through a chimney to the broad saddle (bolts and usually a fixed rope). Follow the ridge and reach the foot of the 'Böse Tritt' - or the 'Bad Step' - over (possibly snowy) slabs. It looks steep but there are incredibly good holds and some fixed ropes. Continue over exposed but easier ground, marked with metal bars, to the summit. The view is expansive: from the Wetterhorn in the east, all the way to Mont Blanc in the west - how many peaks can you name?

Additional information

Departure point

Gspaltenhornhütte SAC (2455 m)

Time: The time varies greatly depending on conditions.

Difficulty: The route has become a little more demanding but also more interesting: New solid iron poles and some intermediate bolts were installed since the fixed ropes and other old equipment were removed or replaced in fall 2018.

Waypoints

Bütlassesattel / Bütlassasattel (3020 m)