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Via the West Flank and West Ridge (Normal route) Grosser Piz Buin / Piz Buin Grond 3312 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, 2b
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- Ascent
- 3:30–4:30 h, 1060 m
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- Descent
- 2:30–3:30 h, 1060 m
Popular, varied alpine tour to the panoramic Piz Buin, the highest peak in Vorarlberg. From Chamonna Tuoi hut to the Silvrettagletscher, then via Fuorcla dal Cunfin into Vorarlberg.
Route description
Chamonna Tuoi - Gletscher La Cudera
From the Chamonna Tuoi hut, slightly downhill in a northerly direction to the La Clozza stream and over a bridge. Flat ascent in the direction of Arpella. At an altitude of 2300m, cross the stream that flows down from Plan Rai and reach a grassy spine. Now westwards straight up to the Plan Rai plateau. Follow cairns, trend up and right into a gap north of Plan Mezdi (P. 2918), then descend slightly to reach the Glacier La Cudera.
Glacier La Cudera - Fuorcla dal Cunfin or saddle ca. 3050 m - Fuorcla Buin
From the Glacier la Cudera ascend to Fuorcla dal Cunfin. If the snow is thin, the Fuorcla has an obvious rock rib to follow, which is reached via scree and slabs. If there is no snow left on Fuorcla dal Cunfin, its better to traverse 150 m further south-east (direction Kleiner Buin) passing a saddle ca. 3050m. From there, descend slightly onto the Ochsentaler Glacier and cross the basin north of the Kleiner Buin to reach to the gap between the Kleiner- and Grosser Buin, labled Fuorcla Buin. Attention: in the area of the Fuorcla Buin rockfall from the Piz Buin Pitschen is possible, in this case it is better to climb towards the Piz Buin Grond.
Fuorcla Buin - Piz Buin
From the saddle, follow tracks over scree left (northeastwards) to a small shoulder in the WNW ridge. Now follow this ridge, climbing simple rock steps, until an exposed traverse leads left into the N-flank and the start of a short and simple "chimney". Climb the chimney 20 m (II-) then continue easier again on faint tracks across the summit cap to the highest point.
Variant: Silvretta hut - Silvrettagletscher
From the Silvretta Hut, follow a marked trail in the direction of the Rote Furka until you reach P. 2553. Now, walk horizontally past the beautiful glacier lake and onto the glacier.
Variant: Silvrettagletscher - Fuorcla dal Cunfin
From the northwestern edge of the glacier, ascend the initially flat glacier field directly to the foot of the Egghorn. Shortly before the W-spur of the Egghorn bear more to the south onto steeper terrain and weave between the large "Egghorn crevasses". Onto the upper glacier basin and the Silvretta Pass. Head east-southeast beneath the Signalhorn to reach the Fuorcla dal Cunfinm where you join the normal route. If the snow is thin, an obvious rock rib leads up to the pass.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent, or the variant to the Silvrettahütte.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- Difficulty
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Route adjustment: due to the danger of rockfalls from the Buin south flank, route 2021 was rerouted south of Cronsel. At the Buinlücke the area towards the Kleine Piz Buin / Piz Buin Pitschen should be avoided due to the danger of rockfall.
- Waypoints
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Starting point of the variant.
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- History
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J. Weilenmann and J.A. Specht with F. Pöll and J. Pfitscher on 14. July 1865
