South ridge from the Kröntenhütte | Alpinism

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Gross Spannort
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South ridge from the Kröntenhütte

South ridge from the Kröntenhütte (Normal route) Gross Spannort 3198 m

Difficulty

PD, 3a
Ascent

4:30–5 h, 1295 m
Descent

3:30–4 h, 1295 m

After a leisurely glacier hike over the Glatt Firn, this interesting high-altitude tour becomes surprisingly engaging. Several steep steps, which are overcome in a short pitches, guard access to the summit. Arriving by the summit cross, you can enjoy a breathtaking view into the Engelberg valley and the Alp Surenen, which is geographically illogical but historically important to the county of Uri. The steep sections are easily overcome in descent by abseiling. Depending on the height of the snow field, the last abseil sometimes requires 2x50 m long ropes. Thereafter, begins the long way back over the gentle glacier to the Graw Stock and further on to the Kröntenhütte.

Ascent Route to the Gross Spannort. (09/2009) © Christoph Barth

Ascent Route to the Gross Spannort. (08/2009) © Müller Bruno

Overview of the three steps when there is a lot of snow. (01/2020) © www.cornelsuter.ch

View into the second rock step. © Fabian Duss

View up to the third rock step. © Fabian Duss

Easy: the way above the third rock step to the summit. © Fabian Duss

Peak pleasures on the Gross Spannort, left Titlis, right Engelberg. (01/2020) © www.cornelsuter.ch

Route description

Kröntenhütte - Graw Stock

From the Krönten hut (1903 m) a path lead into the basin of the Obersee. Head west and pass P. 1969 to climb the Mändliteifi, before rising parallel to the north rib of the Graw Stock (on its lefthand side), to reach the its highpoint (2453 m) below the Glatt Firns glacier.

Graw Stock - Glatt Firn - Spannortjoch pass.

Rocky steps provide access via P. 2570 onto the Glatt Firn. Ascend the gently sloping glacier, turning westwards in a large arc to reach the gap between the Chli and Gross Spannort (Spannortjoch, 2902 m).

Spannortjoch - Gross Spannort

From the Spannortjoch, climb steeply over scree or snow to a couloir (fixed rope) and right into the first rocks (3a). Faint tracks lead to the second rock level, which is overcome by a chimney (2b). After a scree field, the third step follows with a short corner crack (3a), before the subsequent firn field leads to the summit. In all rock steps one finds occasional bolts and belays for protection.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent. The steeper steps on the south ridge can be overcome by abseiling. The abseils are equipped, but not always easy to find. Note their surroundings during your ascent. The 'vorbau' can also be roped off. The stand is about 25 meters east of the ascent route. The abseiling requires 2x50m ropes.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Kröntenhütte SAC (1903 m)

Waypoints

Graw Stock (2453 m)

Unscheinbare Erhebung westlich der Kröntenhütte. Der gut markierte Weg und der schöne Tiefblick ins Erstfeldertal machen den Graw Stock zu einem empfehlenswerten Ziel bei unsicherem Wetter oder als Halbtagestour von der Kröntenhütte aus.

Spannortjoch (2902 m)

Sattel zwischen Chli und Gross Spannort, der den Zugang zum Gross-Spannort-Südgrat vermittelt.

History: W. Mansell, F. E. Thompson, R. Spankie, J. Sowerby, J. M. Tresch and A. Zgraggen, 1867. This ascent was from Engelberg. The team used the south ridge as the final climb to the summit.