From Obererbs over the 'Vorbau' | Alpinism

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Home
Huts and Tours
- SAC Route Portal
- Subscribe to the SAC Route Portal
SAC Route Portal
Gross Kärpf / Gross Chärpf
- Ski tour
- Alpinism
Alpinism
- From Obererbs over the 'Vorbau'
- From the Leglerhütte SAC via the Klein Kärpf
From Obererbs over the 'Vorbau'

From Obererbs over the 'Vorbau' Gross Kärpf / Gross Chärpf 2793 m

Difficulty

PD+, 3b
Ascent

3:30–5 h, 1100 m
Descent

2:30–4 h, 1100 m

The 'Vorbau' is probably the most interesting way to access the Gross Kärpf. No route to the Gross Kärpf is easy. Without the few key climbing holds in the summit structure it would be unreachable. On top is a first-class view of the Glarus Unterland; probably the best ever. With a little luck you will see ibex.

Gross Kärpf with route over the Vorbau and Normalroute (dashed) (2014) © Rhyner Hansueli

On route to the Skidepot. (2015) © Rhyner Hansueli

Ibex, and you though you were a good climber. (2015) © Rhyner Hansueli

Route description

(Steinibach) Obererbs - Hanegg - above the Rotstock

From Steinibach head up valley along the road, then take the zigzag footpath steeply up to Obererbs (Skihütte). From Obererbs continue on the marked footpath over Hanegg (2034 m) up to the right of Rotstock onto the flat grassy shoulder at 2400 m. Here, the normal path leads on to the Kärpfscharte (col) separating the Grosse Kärpf (south) from the small Kärpf (north).

Grassy shoulder (2400 m) - Vorbau - Skidepot

Head left onto the scree covered ridge leading to a striking tower. Slightly right (east) of the ridge, climb up through a chimney, then a follow a crock system, first slightly right, then later over less steep slabs left back up to the ridge. Descend slightly from P. 2610th, then climb diagonally left up the following scree slope. Follow it up into another short slabby chimney (iron bars), and bear left onto the south ridge (ski depot in winter) and the normal route.

Skidepot - Gross Kärpf

Climb the first hard steps of the south ridge, later bypassing the steeper section by moving onto the south wall (iron bars) and reach the summit in easy climbing.

Descent

Descend the route of ascent with some abseiling on the vorbau, or go down the normal route.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Elm, Obererbs (1690 m)

Busbetrieb nur im Sommerhalbjahr: www.sernftalbus.ch/obererbs/index.html

Get there Google Maps

Time: Ascending from Elm (Steinibach) takes a good hour longer.

Difficulty: The 'vorbau' and the summit structure above the ski depot were equipped in 2011 with a few iron bars and a few bolts for rope safety. A 30-metre rope is enough.

Waypoints

Elm, Steinibach (1111 m)

Ausgangspunkt, wenn nicht mit Bus/PW bis Obererbs gefahren wird.