From Hinterbalm via the Westflank | Alpinism

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From Hinterbalm via the Westflank (Normal route) Gross Düssi / Piz Git 3256 m

Difficulty

PD, 2b
Ascent

4–4:30 h, 1436 m
Descent

3–3:30 h, 1436 m

The rear Maderanertal is impressively dominated by the shapely Gross Düssi. The mighty pyramid is a popular tour destination and is usually climbed from the Alp Hinterbalm. As an ideal starting point, we recommend the simple and very cozy Hinterbalmhütte, which is run privately. The partially marked route through the western flank requires some sense for the best line, but is relatively easy in terms of technical difficulty. The ascent route in red, the old route in yellow (rock outcrop there). The short passages in the rock are straightforward, but require a bit of effort and can become tricky when icy. In early summer, as long as old snow fields are still present, axes and crampons are an advantage. With a little luck, the large colony of ibex living here can also be spotted.

The ascent route in red, the old route in yellow (rock fall there © Bruno Müller / SAC-CAS

The new route set up in 2024 in red, the former route in yellow, which is affected by a rock outcrop in the area marked in green. © Ernst Jauch

Route description

Hinterbalm - Schattig Düssi

From Alp Hinterbalm (1820 m) climb directly to the north and soon reach the huts of Düssi (1924 m). Then bear eastwards to Düssifed and over grass and debris into the valley of Schattig Düssi. Stone cairns and color markers show the way on this section.

Schattig Düssi - South Ridge - Gross Düssi

Now climb over scree or snow fields up to a gully descending from the Chli Düssi. Traverse to the left on a new route set up in 2024 onto a ledge and up to the right just close the ridge edge (see route photos). The rocks are easy to get through, but require some work, and can be tricky when verglassed. In good snow conditions, the old route in the gully can also be climbed directly. In the upper part of the western flank you must again ascend scree slopes, a bit of a grind, to gain the south ridge. Continue along the faint tracks of the south ridge to join the summit cross.