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Through the Schwarzwändli (Marti-Route) with descent to Wichlenalp Glarner Vorab 3018 m
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- Difficulty
- F
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- Ascent
- 3:30–4:30 h, 1230 m
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- Descent
- 3–5 h, 1930 m
A simple ridge crossing in great surroundings. Ever changing views. In both directions a rewarding tour.
Route description
Martinsmadhütte - Schwarzwändli - Vorabgletscher
From the Martinsmadhütte (2004 m) head south over the small rock step onto Obermad. Continue to the foot of the large black wall (Schwarzwändli).This is overcome on a marked track which is well equipped with chains.. At the top of the cliff head first west, then arc once more to the south and onto the following rock slabs (also marked). Climb up into the depression southeast of a striking peak (no name, P. 2604) and gain the saddle behind it. From here cut back left (southeast) around a rib, then climb west onto the Vorabgletscher.
Vorabgletscher - Glarner Vorab
Cross the flattish glacier in a directly to the large buttress ahead. Climb up over larege rounded steps to the summit of the Glarner Vorab. A detour to the Bündner Vorab is easy.
Variant: Vorabgletscher - Glarner Vorab
Depending on the snow conditions, you can bypass the rock buttress on the left or the right. Warning! Between the rocks and the ski slope there are still a few crevasses. (More for a winter/ski ascent).
Glarner Vorab - Sether Furggel
From the Glarner Vorab climb down behind the mountain station of the ski lift into the pass between Glarner and Bündner Vorab. Now head south over the west flank of Bündner Vorab to P. 2998. Follow the ridge more or less directly down to P. 2755 (a small saddle). From this hollow contour at approximately 2760 m round to the Crena Martin, P 2726. Follow the final, exposed rock ridge down into the Sether Furggel, P. 2612. The exposed ridge can be bypassed by descending south from Crena Martin onto the screeslope before traversing down beneath the ridge line.
Sether Furggel (P. 2612) - Hexenseeli (witches lake)
From the Sister Furggel descend northwest through the distinctive gully, down a rock step, then on good tracks with markings down to the Hexenseeli P. 2216.
Hexenseeli - Wichlen
Follow the path north east.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- End point
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Wichlen, Walenbrugg (1291 m)
Von der Haltestelle Elm, Büelstafel in 800 m (10 Min.) zum Ausgangspunkt.
Busbetrieb nur im Sommerhalbjahr: www.sernftalbus.ch/obererbs/index.html
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- Waypoints
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- History
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The Glarner and Grisons Vorab, connected by the flat Vorabsattel, were first climbed in 1842 by A. Escher from Linth.
- Route last update
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2018
