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- Difficulty
- 5a (4c)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 9 P / 180 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- NE / Limestone
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- Altitude start
- 2050 m
This classic route through the NE wall of the Gällihore was first climbed in 1958. To this day, it remains a popular climbing tour, with its easy climbing and impressive views. Especially impressive is the chimney on pitch 3. The rock quality may be better on other parts of the Gällihore, but a visit here is nevertheless pleasant, especially on hot summer days because of the shade. On the penultimate pitch, traverse far enough to the right and do not follow the tempting rift straight up. The descent from the summit is then easy and follows the mountain trail over the northwest side of the summit.
Additional information
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Protection
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Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
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Rope
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50m
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Quick draws
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10
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Stoppers
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Friends
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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Abseiling possible
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Descent
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The descent from the summit follows the footpath W then crosses the ridge back to the Sunnbühl valley. 1 hr.
- History
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Oskar Ogi, Werner Grossen, Hans Hari, 1958
