NW ridge, normal route from the Fründenhütte | Alpinism

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- NW ridge, normal route from the Fründenhütte
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NW ridge, normal route from the Fründenhütte

NW ridge, normal route from the Fründenhütte (Normal route) Fründenhorn 3368 m

Difficulty

PD+, 2a
Ascent

3–3:30 h, 830 m
Descent

1:45–2:15 h, 830 m

The Fründenhorn with it's distinctive NW snow/ice slope sits discreetly between the neighbouring summits of Oeschinenhorn and Doldenhorn, yet gives two very worthwhile ascents. The route described here is the normal route over the NW-flank and NW-ridge. More difficult and less frequented is the SW-Ridge. The technical demands of the normal route depend greatly on conditions. Following particularly cold nights there is a high probability of verglas (or black ice) in the lower rocky slabs; care is needed here. Global warming is also affecting this route: for a few years now, around the middle of the season, the firn shield has been dividing at about 3200 m and exposing an rocky part. It was equipped with additional bolts at the end of July 2020. By mid-season, the firn often disappears completely and the route is only possible with tricky slab climbing or no longer feasible.

The route from the Fründenhütte - Fründengletscher to the summit. © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Route detail from the Fründenhütte. (06/2020) © www.senklo.ch

View of the start of the rock section: the route follows the ledge diagonally from the lower right to the upper left. (06/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

Typical terrain in the rock section: slabs, scree and often wet from meltwater. (06/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

Start of the lower firn shield, clearly the rock bar at approx. 3200 m. (06/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

The rocky section about 3200 m, status at the end of July 2020. (08/2020) © Bernhard Winkler

Upper belay on the rocky section about 3200 m, status at the end of July 2020. (07/2020) © Bernhard Winkler

Climbing over the rock ledge in mid-June 2022: scarce firn on slabs. (06/2022) © Fabian Lippuner

On the upper part of the firn shield. © Fabian Lippuner

Arrival at the summit ridge. © Fabian Lippuner

Decent in ideal conditions in deep firm snow. (07/2009) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

The last metres to the summit, on the left Blüemlisalphorn and Öschinenhorn. © Fabian Lippuner

View from the summit across the summit snowfield to the almost 2000 m lower Oeschinensee. (07/2004) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Route description

Fründenhütte - summit

From the Fründenhütte (2562m) descend southwards onto the Fründengletscher, alighting next to the small glacier lake. Cross the glacier (direction SE) to reach the rocky NW-flank of the Fründenhorn, ca. 2600m. From here access a rocky ramp via a 15m high step using cables and iron rungs (in deeper snow the cables may be inaccessible). The rocky ramp, which may also be snow covered, leads up onto a flatter section of the flank. From this flatter section head slightly left and up towards a vertical rock wall. Pass this easily to the right following faint tracks which then lead upwards in a easterly direction to gain the start of the NW-flank's snow slope. (Coloured markings, occasional bolts and cables help with orientation). Follow the slope to the summit. Around the middle of the season, rocky section at about 3200 m (III, bolts).

Descent

Follow closely the line of ascent. Rocky section at about 3200 m: abseil 2 x 20m in descent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Fründenhütte SAC (2562 m)

Time: More time must be allowed if verglas in the lower section and/or blank ice in the upper section are likely.

Difficulty: Ascent may feel hard for the grade when the rock is either wet or icy, and if the summit slopes are blank (often the case in the late summer season). Around the middle of the season, rocky section at about 3200 m (III), abseil 2 x 20m in descent. By mid-season, the firn often disappears completely and the route is only possible with tricky slab climbing or no longer feasible.