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Ascent and Descent to the Föhrenturm, Kl. Bockmattliturm (west basin). Föhrenturm 1750 m
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- Difficulty
- T5-
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- Ascent
- 0:30 h, 220 m
The Chli Chälen is a narrow, steep grass and rock couloir between Kl. Bockmattliturm / Föhrenturm to the north and the Nameless Tower to the south. The small gap at its upper end provides access to the west basin and the western exposed routes of Gr. Bockmattliturm and its West Pillar. The Föhrenturm can also be climbed from the small gap, which is the easiest descent route from Föhrenturm. From the Chli Chälen you can reach both the west wall routes and the difficult sport climbing routes on the south side of the Kl. Bockmattliturm. The Chli Chälen forms an uncomplicated descent route from the numerous multi-pitch routes that end on the west shoulder of the Kl. Bockmattliturm.
Route description
Bockmattlihütte- Chli Chälen - small gap
From the Bockmattli Hut, cross the Gross Chälen, pass the signpost, and climb up the rocky entrance way into the grassy couloir (here starts the Nameless Tower) and the start of an initial, narrow gully (for the highers routes on the west wall of Kl. Bockmattliturm, descend slightly left to the base of the wall).
Follow the couloir all the way up to the small 'Tower Gap' at the top.
Small 'Tower Gap' - west basin
After 'Tower Gap' descend roughly 90 m a steep couloir into the west basin (T5, abseil 5m beneath the gap). The start of "Deubergrätchen" is directly ahead. For the Wes Pillar, ascend rightwards (east) to a massive chock stone.
Westschulter - Chli Chälen (descent from the climbing routes)
From the western shoulder, where the most multi-pitches end, a steep grass band leads down into the Chli Chälen (faint track - slippery when wet!)
'Tower Gap' - Föhrenturm
From 'Tower Gap' (the Kleinen Turmscharte) ascend the easy SE-Ridge in a matter of minutes to reach the summit of Föhrenturms (T4).
Additional information
- Departure and arrival point
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- Difficulty / Material
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Sturdy footwear and sure-footedness required.
