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- Difficulty
- 5b (4c)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 11 P / 2–3:30 h, 200 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- SW / Gneiss
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- Altitude start
- 1575 m
The Burgkante - a great classic of the Fieschertal - offers well bolted slab climbing with great ambience. The red glacier-polished slabs hold numerous terraces on which trees are able to take root.
Route description
Additional information
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Protection
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Very well equipped
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Rope
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50 m
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Quick draws
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10
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Stoppers
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Friends
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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Abseiling possible
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✔
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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The rope lengths are relatively short (20 to 25 m). The first 6 pitches are roughly equal in difficulty.
- Rock Type / Quality
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The gneiss in bombproof but polished smooth by the glacier. Expect much smearing (and swearing).
- Protection / Material
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Cams are not required, but can make run-outs shorter in places.
- Descent
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For the descent from the summit, walk in a northeasterly direction over some ladders to the hiking path, which soon leads to the Burghütte. (Alternatively: a cairn by the 9th belay stance marks the start of an abseil piste through the north face (3 x 25m)
- Waypoints
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Burghütte (1751 m)
Great pitstop or viewing platform in the Fieschertal. -
- History
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The route was bolted with inox in 2014 by Albrecht Marcel. (material donated by Walliser Mountain Guide Association's bolt fund). Belay stances: fitted with 'munirings' (large ring bolts) except for stance 7 (2 bolts).
