Leukerbad / Daubenhorn via ferrata (small version) | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Leukerbad / Daubenhorn via ferrata (small version) Daubenhorn 2941 m

  • Difficulty
    K4-5
  • Ascent
    2 h, 340 m
  • Mountain Experience
    4 / 4
  • Power
    4 / 4
  • Endurance
    4 / 4
  • Psyche
    4 / 4

This ferrata is almost one kilometre high, with more than 2000 metres of steel cable and over 200 metres of ladder, along with countless iron rungs and bars. Only for those with a big appetite, this 'iron way' will speed up the heart rate and makes your eyes shine, while many will arrive with 'mixed emotions' at the cable car station on Gemmipass. Whoever finally makes it to the top of the Daubenhorn however, will feel very much alive. In the evening, with a glass of Fendant, everything was only half as bad as it seemed.

Route description

Approach
From the cable car station (2346 m) down to Gemmipass; from here descend left on an old path down to the Lower Schmitte, where a large information board stands (about 2060 m, 20 min.).
Small via ferrata
Follow the clear trail across the meadow to the foot of the rock, then cross a wild rock basin to the first steel cables. Follow some narrow bands around the "nose" with thrilling views of the first steep section. Here the route shows its class: in very steep terrain, up close and personal, work your way up to the Lerch (about 2190 m), a grassy pulpit in the wall. Two short, but airy traverses, with some pull-ups in between, and you'll be in front of the first large ladder sequence: a total of 76 metres high. These spectacular ladders make for a real adrenaline rush; leading above the large Swiss Cross (visible from Leukerbad) to a striking shoulder on the Upper Gemsfreiheit (2345 m, 2 hrs. 20 min.). Now head left beneath the cliffs over to where the 'Small' and 'Large' ferrata split.
Descent
Follow the safety cable on a long, promising traverse to the sloping meadow of Mieläs (about 2350 m), then in zigzag, evading various rock steps (some cables), down into the grassy basin of Tysche (1832 m). Continue downhill, over the Pischürgraben to the huts of Fiess, then follow the Geissenweg back to Leukerbad (5½ hours from Gemmipass).

Additional information

Character

Via ferrata with extreme strength/endurance factor. Clearly the number one Swiss ferrata! About 900 meters in properly steep terrain, and despite the many ladders not overly secured. Where the rock provides steps and hand holds, additional iron was not used in construction. Since a lot of strength and endurance is required; who consciously climbs and pulls less on the wires will save energy. An extra, short sling with carabiner is highly recommended: In this way you can give your arm muscles a rest from time to time. Already the first section (K4-5) is very demanding with an extremely exposed series of ladders leading to the Upper Gemsfreiheit. The second part is even longer, and harder (K5-6) making it even more challenging, with two extreme variants high on the wall. The "Via Konst" variant can be described as the most airy passage of all Swiss via ferrat. It is named after Konstantin Grichting, initiator and co-creator of the via ferrata, who died in an accident at work. Get there early and go only in very safe weather, not too early in the year (otherwise there'll be too much meltwater flowing through the Great Gorge). Anyone who has problems on the "small via ferrata" can descend from the Upper Gemsfreiheit via Mieläs to Leukerbad. Significant danger of falling rocks in the gorge above the Gemsfreiheit. Telescopic walking poles for descent are pleasant (often some old snow).

Time

Approach: 20 mins Small Ferrata, with Descent to Leukerbad 5½ hrs.

Signalisation

Well marked. Information board on the lower Schmitte (Gemmiweg).

Descent

Follow the safety cable on a long, promising traverse to the sloping meadow of Mieläs (about 2350 m), then in zigzag, evading various rock steps (some cables), down into the grassy basin of Tysche (1832 m). Continue downhill, over the Pischürgraben to the huts of Fiess, then follow the Geissenweg back to Leukerbad (5½ hours from Gemmipass).

Author

Eugen Hüsler

Eugen E. Hüsler is a Zurich born author and photographer. He has written around 70 via ferrata, hiking and cycling guides and illustrated books. His many publications on via ferrata have led to the nickname “Klettersteig-Papst“ (Via Ferrata Pope).

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