Leukerbad / Daubenhorn via ferrata (long version) | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Leukerbad / Daubenhorn via ferrata (long version) Daubenhorn 2941 m

  • Difficulty
    K5-6
  • Ascent
    5:45 h, 920 m
  • Mountain Experience
    4 / 4
  • Power
    4 / 4
  • Endurance
    4 / 4
  • Psyche
    4 / 4

This ferrata is almost one kilometre high, with more than 2000 metres of steel cable and over 200 metres of ladder, along with countless iron rungs and bars. Only for those with a big appetite, this 'iron way' will speed up the heart rate and makes your eyes shine, while many will arrive with 'mixed emotions' at the cable car station on Gemmipass. Whoever finally makes it to the top of the Daubenhorn however, will feel very much alive. In the evening, with a glass of Fendant, everything was only half as bad as it seemed.

Route description

Approach
From the cable car station (2346 m) head down to Gemmipass, then turn left (SE) following the old path down to the Lower Schmitte (a grassy terrace), where a large information board stands (about 2060 m, 20 min).
Grosser Klettersteig
High in the wild canyon above the start, a ladder blinks in the morning sun. Steel cables and iron bars help you to overcome the steep rock. After climbing up a vertical corner (rockfall hazard, waterfall and very strenuous) comes the entrance of an almost 100 metre shaft (2575 m), offering a very special experience of light and shadow. There are two route options to choose from: an easier (but usually wetter) one, which is quite difficult, but has two suspension bridges and the second overhanging and spectacular detour into the "Underworld" which is followed by an extremely exhausting climb, except for a short horizontal band. After this, the steepness decreases slightly; at the old bivouac site (a grotto ca. 2720 m), the "Ferratisti" may then (possibly with a slightly shaky hand) register in the route book. For the intrepid traveller, there is now an absolute blast: the "Via Konst" - short, crisp and very airy. It leads through a cave into the slightly overhanging wall, from which - with a few hundred meters of air under your butt - you climb over iron rungs into "safer" terrain - wow! The normal route runs from the bivouac place first over scree, then along the rocky ridge to the summit rocks of the Daubenhorn. After a longer traverse comes the last ladder: 30 meters high, slightly overhanging, which brings you out onto the ridge and shortly to the summit of the Daubenhorn (2941 m, 5¾ hrs.).
Descent
Shortly down to the crevasse-free Daubenhorn glacier, which you cross to the northwest. Along a clearly defined, white-blue-white marked track over screes downhill to Lämmerenboden, then right back to the Gemmi Pass (2346 m, 8 hours).

Additional information

Character

Via ferrata with extreme strength/endurance factor. Clearly the number one Swiss ferrata! About 900 meters in properly steep terrain, and despite the many ladders not overly secured. Where the rock provides steps and hand holds, additional iron was not used in construction. Since a lot of strength and endurance is required; who consciously climbs and pulls less on the wires will save energy. An extra, short sling with carabiner is highly recommended: In this way you can give your arm muscles a rest from time to time. Already the first section (K4-5) is very demanding with an extremely exposed series of ladders leading to the Upper Gemsfreiheit. The second part is even longer, and harder (K5-6) making it even more challenging, with two extreme variants high on the wall. The "Via Konst" variant can be described as the most airy passage of all Swiss via ferrat. It is named after Konstantin Grichting, initiator and co-creator of the via ferrata, who died in an accident at work. Get there early and go only in very safe weather, not too early in the year (otherwise there'll be too much meltwater flowing through the Great Gorge). Anyone who has problems on the "small via ferrata" can descend from the Upper Gemsfreiheit via Mieläs to Leukerbad. Significant danger of falling rocks in the gorge above the Gemsfreiheit. Telescopic walking poles for descent are pleasant (often some old snow).

Time

Approach: 20 mins

Small Ferrata: 2 hrs

Large Ferrata: 3¾ hrs. (Altogether 5¾ for the full tour to the Daubenhorn)

With descent to Gemmipass total: 8 Std.

Signalisation

Ascent and descent marked, large information board at the lower Schmitte (Gemmiweg)

Descent

Shortly down to the crevasse-free Daubenhorn glacier, which you cross to the northwest. Along a clearly defined, white-blue-white marked track over screes downhill to Lämmerenboden, then right back to the Gemmi Pass (2346 m, 8 hours).

Author

Eugen Hüsler

Eugen E. Hüsler is a Zurich born author and photographer. He has written around 70 via ferrata, hiking and cycling guides and illustrated books. His many publications on via ferrata have led to the nickname “Klettersteig-Papst“ (Via Ferrata Pope).

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