S-Ridge | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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S-Ridge Chöpfenberg 1894 m

Difficulty

4c (4a)
Pitches / Height Difference

11 P / 3–4 h, 230 m
Exposition / Rock Type

S / Limestone
Altitude start

1650 m

Scenic climbing over numerous small towers, which - without significant drops in between - link together nicely. The climb starts in the same place as the much visited Brüggler area, but on this furthest climb, along the watershed between Schwändi- and Trepsental you are likely to be alone. The route starts with an exposed traverse and 40 m of fine ridge climbing on the massive first tower. This is followed by several shorter climbing lengths and a sharp, horizontal ridge section. After the grassy connecting pitches (8 and 9), it gets even airier. The summit head wall is surprisingly outwitted by following a rightward slanting crack.

Chöpfenberg S-Ridge, Pitch 2. © Lötscher Urs

Chöpfenberg S-Ridge, Pitch 4. © Lötscher Urs

Chöpfenberg S-Ridge, Pitch 6. © Lötscher Urs

Chöpfenberg S-Ridge, Pitch 9. © Lötscher Urs

Route description

Approach to Chöpfenberg S-Ridge

Related route: Approach to Chöpfenberg S-Ridge

S-Ridge

See also: Topo. Pitch 1: From the blue marked starting point (piton) climb to the left, traversing the wall to a grass band. Follow this pass a dead tree to a crack, which leads through the first difficult section (piton), move to the left out of the crack on a grassy band to a stance in the middle (piton). Pitch 2: Continue leftwards to the arete, then a few meters slightly left of it up to another piton. Go straight along the arete and then easier up to the ridge (belay stance). Pitch 3: A few steps lead you to a small tower; climb it directly and after the steepest meters traverse right to an ancient time-bomb sling. Pitch 4: Descend into the notch, approach the following overhanging wall, climb this on the left, until you can move back rightwards to a piton. Tricky, athletic moves lead up into a crack (piton); follow this high (easier) to the top of the tower and cross into the following gap (belay stance). Pitch 5: Follow a dihedral up (piton), continue scrabbling in the chimney scrubber, then take easier ground along the ridge to a small pinnacle before a horizontal section (sling belay). Pitch 6: Down climb a few meters rightwards (east side) then balance along the horizontal edge. There follows a beautiful slab (depending on the length of the rope possibly belay). The following tower can be climbed; it has a somewhat tricky descent into the next gap. Alternatively, after the slab, keep left (west) of the ridge and reach the gap directly, bypassing the tower completely. Pitch 7: Continue up the next tower. Pitches 8/9: Now 2-3 rope lengths in simple grassy terrain up to platform (trees) under a small steepwall (piton left of the arete). Pitch 10: Magnificent climbing lead up the following wall and onto the ridge to a stance beneath the final summit wall (2 rusty pitons). Pitch 11: A rightward slanting crack leads though easy terrain and up to the summit.

Descent

Related route: Descent from Chöpfenberg

Additional information

Protection: Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope: 50 m
Quick draws: 5
Stoppers: -
Friends: ✔
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: ++
Abseiling possible: -
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Difficulty: Die schwierigste Kletterstelle befindet sich in der 4. Seillänge am dritten Turm (um 4c–5a). Es stecken dort aber 2, 3 gute Haken, die über diese kurze, steile Stelle hinweg helfen können. Alternativ kann man die Türme 3 und 4 ostseitig einfach umgehen, muss sich dabei aber durch die Föhren kämpfen. Mit dieser Variante gehen die Schwierigkeiten kaum über den dritten Grad hinaus.

Rock Type / Quality: Der Fels ist für eine Tour in diesem Schwierigkeitsbereich über weite Strecken und immer dort, wo es anspruchsvoller ist zum Klettern, fest und griffig. In einfachen und grasigen Passagen dagegen ist Vorsicht geboten, weil naturgemäss nicht alles kompakt ist.

Protection / Material: In den schwierigeren Kletterstellen sowie an den Ständen, wo nicht mit Schlingen gesichert werden kann, stecken zuverlässig gute, vereinzelt auch etwas angerostete Schlaghaken, aber keine Bohrhaken. Mit zusätzlich 3–4 kleineren bis mittleren Cams und 2, 3 langen Schlingen lässt sich die Tour ausreichend gut absichern. Ein alpiner Charakter bleibt ihr aber in jedem Fall erhalten.