S-Ridge Jümpferli | Alpine climbing

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S-Ridge Jümpferli (Normal route) Chemifluh / Chemiflue (Boltigen) 1867 m

Difficulty

5a (4b)
Pitches / Height Difference

6 P / 400 m
Exposition / Rock Type

SW / Limestone
Altitude start

1867 m

This route has long been a popular training route for beginners. Today it is rivalled by many 'climbing gardens', but is still a worthwhile destination. The rock quality is good and the route follows logical lines of weakness up through the broad southwest ridge. The route is protected with many normal pitons; so a good head as well as route finding ability is helpful here; traits that are no longer so common in the sport climbing scene today.

Chemifluh S-Ridge and W-Face. Route 5 is the Jümpferli (S-Ridge) © Gerber Martin

Route description

Approach

Related route: Approach to Chemifluh

S-Ridge, Jümpferli

See Topo

Summit of Chemifluh - after the Abseil

Descending from the summit via the N-ridge: after a short distance there is a 25 m abseil. After this, continue NE along the ridge and descend another 6 m into a gap (abseil or down climb).

Descent

Related route: Descent Chemifluh

Additional information

Protection: Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope: 50m
Quick draws: 6
Stoppers: ✔
Friends: -
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: ++
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Descent: Descending from the summit via the N-ridge: After a short way there is a 25 m abseil. After this, continue NE along the ridge and descend another 6 m into a gap. Now descend diagonally eastwards through the forest, back onto the approach path and down to Ramsere and the parking lot.