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From Champex by the Val d'Arpette Cabane du Trient CAS 3170 m
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- Difficulty
- AD
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- Ascent
- 6 h, 1700 m
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- Exposure
- N, NE
A recommended approach though it can be exposed to avalanches. It is also not free from difficulties; the section "Fenêtre des Chamois" can be tricky.
Route description
Champex – Couloir
From Champex (1468 m), take the signposted path westwards to the chalets at Arpette. Continue up the valley, keeping to its southern bank. After you round the Tête d'Arpette (P.2294) climb diagonally SW over the broad flat slope of the Pierriers d'Arpette. Once you pass level with the start of the east ridge of Pointe des Ecandies (P.2406), bea west beneath the northern flanks of Pointe d'Orny aiming for the Col des Ecandies. Shortly before the col, turn left (S) and enter the obvious couloir which leads up to a gap (the "Fenêtre des Chamois"or "window of the chamois").
Couloir – Fenêtre des Chamois
Head up the steep couloir (usually on foot) to reach the Fenêtre des Chamois (approx. 2990 m). This section can be tricky when the rocks are verglassed.
Fenêtre des Chamois – Hut
Ascending slightly, cross the steep flank to P. 3008, then drop down onto the eastern bank of the Glacier du Trient. Trace its upper edge beneath the lowest rocks of Point d'Orny, and arc round to the east to reach Cabane du Trient (3169 m).
Variation for when the glacier is well filled in.
Instead of climbing the couloir, cross the the Col des Escandies and drop down the other side to meet the glacier's east bank lower down. Ascend to join the normal route, paying close attention to the crevasses.
Additional information
- Crux
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The Fenêtre des Chamois (not marked on the map) is located above the Col des Ecandies and accessed by a steep couloir. For this passage, the full set of alpine equipment and know-how is required.
- Waypoints
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Is passed on the variant.
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- Route number
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26d
