S-Ridge | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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S-Ridge (Normal route) Breitlauihorn 3655 m

Difficulty

PD+, 3a
Ascent

3:30–3:30 h, 900 m
Descent

30 m

Nowadays, the south ridge on the Breitlauihorn is the normal route. A rather short, but varied and highly recommended high tour from the Baltschiederklause. Frequently done and highly praised. The rock section on the actual south ridge is short-lived, but in dry conditions offers beautiful climbing. To reach the start of the ridge, climb over the relatively problem-free Üssre Baltschieder glacier. Some larger crevasses before the firn plateau at almost 3500 m sometimes cause some problems. However, there is (almost) always a way round them.

Route Overview. Üssre Baltschiedergletscher - Breitlauihorn (07/2013) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

The Jägihorn. (10/2015) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

On the Üssre Baltschiedergletscher (10/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

A very wintery Breitlauihorn, the S-Ridge leading from the right of the picture. (10/2015) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

The Saddle at P. 3475 before the rockfall. (10/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

The Saddle at P. 3475 after the rockfall 2023. (09/2023) © Lukas Manni / bergmani.ch

The Saddle at P. 3475 after the rockfall, the arrow indicating the climbing direction. © Lukas Manni / bergmani.ch

First step on the S-Ridge proper. (10/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Route description

Baltschiederklause - moraine Üssre Baltschiedergletscher

From the Baltschiederklause hut, take the path beneath the SW walls of the Jägihorn through to the slabs and scree fields to the moraine Üssre Baltschieder Glacier.

Üssre Baltschiedergletscher - Saddle P. 3475

Cross the scree and slabs diagonally to the west and up to the glacier, which is joined at approx. 2880 m. Now climb in a steady arc across the glacier to the distinctive saddle at P. 3475, to the N of the three towers.

Saddle P. 3475 - Breitlauihorn

Immediately after the saddle you must climb a short slab (3a). Thereafter the ridge becomes easier, and leads you gently northwards to the summit. Some less compact rock here and there, and maybe some firn snow.

Additional information

Departure point

Baltschiederklause SAC (2783 m)

Difficulty: The difficulties are concentrated on the rather short rock section on the S ridge. In 2023, a rockfall occurred in the P. 3473 ridge gap. The route is still accessible, but the climbing is more delicate than before and can be secured with friends.