Via ferrata Gabi Simplon | Via ferrata

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- Via ferrata Gabi Simplon
Via ferrata Gabi Simplon

Via ferrata Gabi Simplon Bleikuwald 1327 m

Difficulty

K4
Ascent

1:30 h, 210 m
Mountain Experience

1 / 4
Power

2 / 4
Endurance

2 / 4
Psyche

3 / 4

On the south side of the Simplonpass there is plenty of rock, the mightiest of them rising up to the sky from the Gondo gorge, and there are plenty of climbers using them. Since the summer of 2008 less experienced climbers have their own playground directly above the Gabi tunnel: a face, 250 metres high, east facing and almost vertical near the top. To limit the difficulty for via ferrata climbers, the builders used a lot of iron ... more than 700 iron rungs and bars! So, the climb is safe, but towards the end it is hard on arm muscles. Those who want to test their acrobatic skills begin the tour on the three-cable bridge suspended between a boulder and the main wall.

The Simplonpass road viewed from an unusual angle. © Eugen E. und Hildegard Hüsler

Beginning the fun on the via ferrata. © Daniel Anker

Route description

Approach

Via ferrata Gabi Simplon

The approach to the via ferrata starts from the western entrance of the Gabi-Strassentunnel (ca. 1210 m). A signpost shows the way down to the right towards the Doveria river bed. The route begins either directly at the foot of the face or by crossing the cable bridge a few metres further to the right. Perfectly equipped, the route goes directly up the face. A few metres below your feet, the trucks roar past. Easy climbing on tiered rock brings you to a distinct ledge on the lower part of the face. Follow this ledge to the right until the safety cables lead up again. Artificial steps help to overcome the next 50 metres of steep rock to reach another ledge. Traverse to the right and you face the last challenge: an almost vertical face. Step by step work your way up this face, past a Swiss flag. Finally, climb up some rocky slabs to reach the end of the via ferrata.

Descent

Additional information

Character: K3–4. Well equipped via ferrata, French style. There is little contact with the rock, an additional three-cable bridge to start of the climb is optional. From the upper part you can enjoy an impressive view down to the Simplon road. There is an escape option after the horizontal ledge before the uppermost, vertical face. Via ferrata sets can be rented at the Arnold bakery, Simplon Dorf (027 979 11 25).